I have some questions about the right way to install the baseboards at
a couple places in my remodeling work. My house has flat 1x10s for
First, I have several outside corners in the new work, and I'm
wondering if I should butt joint them or miter them. There are no
outside corners in the old work to match, but all the the inside
corners are butt jointed. Obviously with a profiled baseboard you have
to miter the outside corners, but I was thinking with the flat stock I
should butt joint them to match the inside corners. Is that right?
Second, in an alcove I have to deal with a floor height transition of
about 1/8" and a metal transition strip. I was thinking that I should
install the baseboard first and just run the transition strip between
the baseboards. For the baseboard itself, I'm planning on just
notching the part over the higher floor. Does this sound right?
I agree with Alan. The OS corners need to be mitered because of the end
grain. You may also need to trim them a bit for a tight fit. Suggest you
use some scrap pieces to cut a test fit as wall and corners are seldom true.
You might be able to get away with just trimming the bottom for such a small
rise or hide the difference with the shoe molding. I did one last year with
a 5/8" difference in a doorway and it required a compound miter cut to allow
for the angle of incline and to get a good tight miter. I really don't
recall what I did now. I used a several feet of scrap pieces figuring it
out. I do recall that is was like cutting crown, upside down and backwards.
floor in all installs except carpet in all installations that I have seen.
Reason: it is flexible and can be bent up or down as needed. Very few
floors are truly level. The minor variation in the shoe is never noticed.
If the gap is minor, is it reasonable to use painter's caulk for it?
I understand this is OK for small gaps between the baseboard and the
wall, when the wall finish is not perfectly straight.
Sure! It is your house.
If it were mine I would try to match the new to the old as close as
possible. If the old has no shoe then install no shoe. Come to think of it;
with 10" BB you may not have shoe.
I would use the trim and siding caulk which is a little thicker and will
shrink less and last longer than painter's grade.
Practically, to hide any gap between baseboard and floor. Floors are seldom
truly level and you couldn't bend your 1x10. You could spile it though.
Esthetically, there are those that like the look of a shoe.
BTW, wood floors are never - or should not be, at least - installed after
baseboards. The purpose of the baseboard is to hide the expansion area
between floor and wall. Come to think of it I guess one *could* install
floor after baseboard and hide expansion between floor and baseboard with a
shoe. Poor form though.
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