Anybody have a Milwaukee Right Angle Drill Attachment?

Specifically, the 49-22-8510
(Amazon.com product link shortened)- Attachment/dp/B000BYEJ02
Is that a one to one input to output gearing? In other words... Is the input the same as the output? Or is it gear reduction?
Thanks.
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Sorry...
(Amazon.com product link shortened)
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On 2/29/2012 10:18 PM, John Doe wrote:

personally, i would assume 1:1 since the description lacks any mention of otherwise. Googling does not produce any different description than what amazon has.
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never mind, its cheaper on amazon
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ya got an hour left to get one http://www.closeout.tooliday.com/
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I have had one for a long time and used it maybe 3 or 4 times...but in those situations, I needed it, and it saved the day. Yup, 1 : 1 ratio, very tough. Get one, shop for best price.
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Bruce <br spambegon.com> wrote:

Thanks to the replies. I ordered one, for my project.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/
An ordinary cordless drill should be perfect for an inline skating push stick (assuming the clutch works as expected). I knew that several years ago ago, but just now getting around to trying a drill that includes a clutch. A right angle drill makes the device easy to build, but doesn't include a clutch. The standard cordless drill is meant for the application. It just needs a 1:1 right angle attachment. The drill needs to be in line with the stick so that the structure is sturdy. Then again... I guess the increased structure weight required for attaching the drill directly to the wheel sprocket/shaft might be less than the right angle attachment weight. Hmm.
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In the intended application of using a 90 degree drive as a pusher located at the end of a pole, how is the tire not going to want to rotate the pole around it's axis, making it useless as a source of traction power?
I can grasp the wheel located between forks being (somewhat) effective, as in a yoke setup, with power being transferred/opposed equally on both sides of the wheel, but not offset at a right-angle to the pole.
Seems to be like trying to deliver pusher traction from an unrestrained caster wheel.
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"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote:

Like the inline skating push sticks shown on my picture page. http://www.flickr.com/photos/27532210@N04/

Probably has something to do with the backwards and downwards force pushing the wheel into the ground. Mine does not use static weight for traction like the others, it uses leverage.

My concern was stress on the right angle output gear bearing, but that too is probably misguided. That's why the wheel is close as possible to the right angle gear, but... It works fine. The second version has the wheel much closer (percentage wise) to the right angle gear output bearing, but even the first version worked. In actual use, after tens of miles, the lack of a conventional fork is no problem.
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> Seems to be like trying to deliver pusher traction from an
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On 2/29/2012 11:16 PM, John Doe wrote:

The link isn't working right now. I use to have a Milwaukee right angle drill. I'm pretty sure that without the angle attachment it went at a higher RPM, Maybe 600 vs 400 I am not a big fan of that drill. If you tighten and loosen the angle coupling to often, it gets to a point where it no longer stays tight. Then if the drill jams, the coupling spins, and easily rips the drill out of your hands. If you happen to be drilling overhead, the damn thing can clock you right in the head... Hard
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On 3/8/2012 7:11 AM, RBM wrote:

LOL, sorry, I thought this was a full sized 1/2" right angle drill. You'd be hard pressed to get clocked by this.
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    Oh -- this is the little one which used to come with the AEG electric screwdriver -- and the lever handle shown was just a push-on tab for that one.
    And this one shows the tab, and part of the screwdriver:
<(Amazon.com product link shortened)>
    Milwaukee apparently bought the AEG screwdriver line. I wonder whether they still have batteries to fit?
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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    That depends on which way around you mount it. It offers a step-up in one orientation, and a step-down in the other.

    Sprinkle valve grinding compound inside the coupling and then tighten it well *once* to embed the grit in the coupling, then clean off any lose grit left. Make sure to loosen it fully before sliding it on or off, or you will grind away the mating surfaces faster.

    :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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