Right Angle Drill

[Mr Fizzion]

OK, so I found out that my drill won't fit between the joists (between ground floor and first floor) with a 25mm bit in it so I'm looking for a right angle drill or a right angle adapter.

I found this one:

cheap and probably wouldn't manage 25mm through a joist.

This is cheap but doesn't look like it would cope either:

other ideas?

(I realise I can very easily cut a notch in the top of the joist but a drill is quicker, neater and easier - it will also mean I can put the pipes lower down in the joist which will stop them from heating the very creaky floorboards causing expansion and banging.)

TIA

Mr F

[Rob Morley]

Cut down a spade bit so it's just long enough to go through the joist (don't forget to leave enough to go in the chuck).

[AlexW]

Notches are structurally less sound and should really be used as a last resort IMO.

Can you shorten the (chuck end) of the drill bit if its marginal. I am guessing the hole needs to be a max of say 3" deep so that's how much is needed protruding???

Or one of those 3d bits which you can start off at an angle and the curve in between the joists as the depth of the hole allows might be another option again if marginal ... not ideal I know, but in a pinch!

HTH,

Alex.

[Tony Bryer]

[Bosch GWB7.2VE 7.2V Angled Drill / Driver: £94.99]

I would have thought that this is precisely what it's meant to do, though you're right that it does say drilling capacity in timber 15mm.

Depending on the sort of bit you are using, can you shorten the shank so it's just long enough to get through the joist and no more?

[Andy Hall]

I have a Makita DA 391 angle drill. THis is only a 9.6v model but is low geared. With a short 25mm auger bit, it will comfortably drill through joists.

is also a 12v version and both are available without batteries or charger if you already have Makita tools.

[Lobster]

cheerful adaptor like the above off ebay on the basis that nothing ventured, nothing gained - looks very similar to the above actually. It did the job perfectly! Think my holes would have been a bit smaller (for wiring, rather than pipes)

David

[Doctor Drivel]

Ryobi do a battery angle drill. Do a Google on it.

[Mr Fizzion]

Thanks for all who had this idea :-)

I'll try this in a bit. The only problem is that the remaining part of the shank will be perfectly round and shiny. I just wonder if the chuck will grip it.

Mr F.

[John Rumm]

On the subject of cut down bits, CPC do short length Auger bits (which would be a tad harder to cut down than a spade bit!):

I found this one:

Almost certainly would IME.

few weeks back. Driven from a cordless Makita (although I expect any drill would do within reason), it survived the job ok. The job required a few dozen holes.

[Rob Morley]

If you have access to a welder then a blob of weld will give it something to grip, but don't make it so big that the bit ends up not sitting straight in the chuck.

[Dave]

In practice this doesn't seem to be a problem at high speed with sharp bits.

Dave

[Richard Polhill]

Drill at an angle. I presume you're installing cables, not pipes?

[Richard Polhill]

Richard Polhill wrote in news:lvu1s2- [e-mail]:

But then I read back and realised it *was* pipework.

Ignore me. People often find it helps.

[Andy Hall]

That will be a problem I suspect.

Spade bits are difficult to control to get a straight hole and need a lot of torque.

An auger bit will work a lot better, and you can get short ones for the job.

[Roger R]

news:lvu1s2-

looking for

If he was installing cables it is an advantage for the strength of the joist to drill at an angle as you suggested.

Roger

[Sylvain Van der Walde]

This may be a foolish suggestion, but here goes: CK do a right angle drill adapter. It's small but seems very well made and robust. Maplin stock it at under £4.00 (if my memory hasn't let me down).

Sylvain. (I'm a fellow).

[<me9]

It depends where in the span they are. Near the ends (0.07- 0.25 of span) they are ok, but can seriously weaken the joist if nearer the middle. Holes near the centre line of the joists are ok near the middle(0.25-0.4 of span) of the span, but not near the ends of the span. The dominant stresses are different depending on where you are in the span.

[Tony Bryer]

Uh? If you drill at an angle you remove more of the joist.

[Roger R]

R

Marginally. Under excess load the joist would split along the grain starting at the hole, but if the hole is at an angle the split could not extend across the width of the joist because the same fibres are not cut all the way across.

I cannot remember where I read about cutting at an angle, but when I came to rewire this house the holes were cut at an angle. Of course it could be the electrician in 1950 didn't have a drill that could get between the joists.

Roger

[Paul Andrews]

Why not hire a right-angle drill rather than buy one?

Paul