I am going to attempt to finish up my remodeling project with some
drywall hanging. I have never done this before and wanted to try and
knock it out myself before bringing in the professionals to finish it
off. I have been reading up on the subject matter and have gathered a
few tips, but there is one I didn't see alot on.
Should I drywall my bathrooms with the green board instead? Is it worth
it? And should I always do the ceiling first?
- Most likely hanging horizontally
- Hang top piece first
- Using screws
- Start at the doors.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Ask around and hire someone who does this a lot (not a contractor ... a
worker). These folks are often looking for "cash" overtime. You can help
him or her. You don't want to learn on you own, on your own home!
I have hung drywall, taped, sanded, etc many times in my life. Then
one day I decided to call a contractor in to do my family room. That
was the best money I ever spent. They came in the morning and left at
dinner time with the whole room done, including the skim coat of finish
plaster. $600 as I recall. No mess, no breathing plaster dust, no
cursing because I don't own a power mixer, no not knowing some of the
tricks like flipping a wet paint brush at the joint with the ceiling,
one and one. Spend some money and get the job done right.
Be careful of spending money and not getting the job done right. I've hired
contractors and plenty of them have done a shitty job. It takes me more
time to do it, but with a good book or two I can often do it better.
I recommend doing-it-yourself in every case EXCEPT drywall. I've seen
others hire that step out and end up spending just a little more than I
did drywalling my own basement and it was the most difficult step of
the entire project. Never again!
It's probably too late for my tip, but when framing be absolutely
certain where the drywall sheets will start and stop. Also, think
about any potential future wiring needs - not just there, but other
rooms as well. I added cable TV and ethernet to the existing 1st floor
before sealing up the basement ceiling. There'll never be another
chance for that.
Yes. Green board resists moisture better than gypsum board. If
you are going to be tiling a shower or tub surround, use a cement
backer board. Any drywall supplier will steer you to the right
Whatever creates the fewest butt-ends and seams.
If horizontal, stagger the butt joints top and bottom.
The pros usually mix horizontal and vertical, depending on the room.
Generally, but If you're hanging it by yourself or with an
inexperienced helper, you may find it easier to board the bottom piece
first, then insert the top piece above it.
Yup. And countersinking so as not to break the paper.
Doesn't matter where you start, measure it out so that doors and
windows land in the middle of a piece. No joints over doors or
Get a taper booked first ... and make sure he/she knows you're hanging
it yourself. A lot of tapers are reluctant to touch homeowner
(Whenever I call a new (to me) taper, the first question is "who's
boarding it?" If the taper doesn't know the boarder, he'll only
quote after he sees the job ready. )
Order board from a drywall supplier, not Home Depot or such. You want
it "delivered in place" .. ie. on the floor where the boarding is to
Learn how to do a board count.
Check with drywall contractors for a quote on the whole job. May not
be much more than you expect to pay anyway. Of all the diy jobs,
boarding and taping are the toughest to master, I think.
That's what he just said. You countersink no more than the paper can hold
without breaking. You have to countersink, of course. It will "dimple" the
drywall by digging into the gypsum, but not so much as to tear the paper.
The paper will bend in slightly while still holding together. A drywall
dimpling screw bit costs a couple bucks and will set it the right depth.
Same difference....I agree with you Bob. I always think of counter
sinking nails because a nail is going to stop flush (theoretically) and
you have to do some extra work to get it below the flush line. There is
a term for that extra work you have to perform but I can't remember it
right now. Screws do it automatically.
Oh yea....that extra work is called "counter sinking".....gotcha.
Okay, okay. The term for drywall is dimpling. I wasn't sure that
the orginal poster, an admitted amateur, would know it, so I used
counter sinking which every one should know.
There are people here who help, there are people here who pick nits.
Yes (moisture area) , Yes, and Yes (use 5/8" rock for ceiling).
After the ceiling, the top wall next, so I tap a couple of nails in
the top almost through the rock. Once in place you can hammer them in
to the top plate to hold that piece up, Longer pieces; you will need
some help. Get a few nails in the studs to hold it up. A couple of
pencil marks at the bottom to point to the studs.
Start on a long wall and hang big pieces. Always to remember to
stagger the joints and to try and keep factory edges together.
Learn in a closet first. When you hang the bottom wall the rock will
not be square at the floor, so you have to adjust...and cut the bottom
off so rip it from your measurement.
Non-Pro comments here.
"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens
Others have pretty well covered your questions.
One thing that I am repeatedly reminded myself how dumb I was that I
didn't do it:
Take a picture of the bare framing and wiring (all 4 walls and ceiling)
before covering. It is amazing how often since I did my whole house
rehab that I have needed to locate a stud and couldn't remember where
the 16" spacing started or just where the wiring ran.
Right! I always take progress photos and make sure there are pictures
of wiring, mechanical, trenches, etc. before anything gets covered up.
I've had to refer to them numerous times and they are extremely helpful
in showing an inspector that there's really no need to dig things up
and poke holes in walls for their inspection. Just don't assume that
the pictures will satisfy the inspector ahead of time. Inspectors have
notoriously large toes and hate having them stepped on.
I rehabbed an old farm house I bought. Thought I'd save some money by
drywalling it all myself. Well, I did it ... but I regret it. It was a
real PITA. I thought it would be easy. It wasn't. I also made the
mistake of painting the walls with a satin finish instead of flat. You
can see every nail and joint. But it's too late now to do much about
it. I recently sold the house and I know that it sold for a lot less
because of the shoddy amateur job on the walls.
I'm not saying that it's impossible for a newbie to do a good job. But
I am saying that it is very difficult to do so.
Get a pro ! And if money is a problem, go for cheaper carpets, like a
Berber, to make up the difference.
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