4.5" side grinder question


Got a side grinder that uses 4.5" cuttoff wheels.
The one on there now is worn way down. I've got a pack of new ones. The problem is that I don't clearly see the way to put a new one on. I know it has to be fairly simple, but there are several possible things for me to try to turn to get the wheel loose.
There is a gizmo in the front center of the wheel with four small holes spaced around it. Looks like something that would take a quad spanner if this is to be turned.
I do have a button on the grinder that locks the shaft, so that's good. Between the wheel and grinder body there is an approx .5 dia shaft with two opposed flat spots that looks like maybe it's for a real thin open end wrench.
I don't have an open end wrench that will go between the grinder body and wheel, nor do I have a 4 prong spanner.
Before I go to Home Depot and Lowes on the hunt for something, I need to know what I'm going for. Is it a 4 prong spanner? Or a thin open end wrench I need? Or what?
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RB wrote:

generrall, ther is a spindle lock[some kind of small button in the vicinity] push that ina nd turn the griding wheel slowly till it locks,then you can probably loosen the grinding wheel by turning it ccw while holding the button. If you don't ovetighten your new one you will probably be able to continue that way
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...or get a two prong spanner wrench (you don't need to fill all 4 holes, just two). Or make one out of a piece of wood and two metal thingies spaced appropriately far apart (machines screws, nails, etc.).
yourname wrote:

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My angle grinder from Harbor Fright came with a two prong spanner.
--

Christopher A. Young
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wrote:

To bad the thing doesn't have a make or model number on it anywhere, or you could look up that specific device..
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Suggestion: RTFM
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You are missing a 2 pin spanner wrench. It came with the grinder when it was new. They are brand specific, a Milwaukee does not fit a Chaiwan necessarily. The wrenches are probably not sold separately.
Best bet. Go to the store with your grinder in hand. Find a brand that does fit your hole pattern. Order one from their parts list. You might even ask if there is any chance that someone returned one that might have an extra wrench. This will be much easier with a Harbor Freight.
Alternatives. Drill the hole spacing into a steel strap and drive two roll pins, nut and bolt combination, or other hard pins to function as spanner pins. Another way, somehow hold the arbor detent and stick the tips of a needle nose pliers in the holes. Use brute force and/or a heavy screwdriver through the tips to increase leverage. My experience is that even with the correct wrench, it takes quite a bit of force to loosen the nut. YMMV.
Go to the store, use their wrench to get the nuts off. Never use cutting wheels again and limit the tool's use to threaded hub attachments. I prefer grinding disks, sanding flap wheels, wire wheels, etc with the 5/8-11 hub anyway. ______________________________ Keep the whole world singing . . . . DanG (remove the sevens) snipped-for-privacy@7cox.net

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Yes, the wrenches are sold separately. Once you get a wrench, figuring out how to get the thing off without directions should take you about thirty seconds.
When putting on attachments to this tool, don't overtighten, or use motor RPM to spin on those items with a spin on hub, like flappers or wire brushes. It makes them very hard to take off. If you just turn it until it makes contact, it will tighten down with use, and then you can back it off with (usually) just a gloved hand.
Steve
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2 prong spanner, you can fabricate one pretty easily from a table fork. RB wrote:

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