Got a side grinder that uses 4.5" cuttoff wheels.
The one on there now is worn way down. I've got a pack of new ones. The
problem is that I don't clearly see the way to put a new one on. I know it
has to be fairly simple, but there are several possible things for me to try
to turn to get the wheel loose.
There is a gizmo in the front center of the wheel with four small holes
spaced around it. Looks like something that would take a quad spanner if
this is to be turned.
I do have a button on the grinder that locks the shaft, so that's good.
Between the wheel and grinder body there is an approx .5 dia shaft with two
opposed flat spots that looks like maybe it's for a real thin open end
I don't have an open end wrench that will go between the grinder body and
wheel, nor do I have a 4 prong spanner.
Before I go to Home Depot and Lowes on the hunt for something, I need to
know what I'm going for. Is it a 4 prong spanner? Or a thin open end
wrench I need? Or what?
generrall, ther is a spindle lock[some kind of small button in the
vicinity] push that ina nd turn the griding wheel slowly till it
locks,then you can probably loosen the grinding wheel by turning it ccw
while holding the button. If you don't ovetighten your new one you will
probably be able to continue that way
...or get a two prong spanner wrench (you don't need to fill all 4
holes, just two). Or make one out of a piece of wood and two metal
thingies spaced appropriately far apart (machines screws, nails, etc.).
You are missing a 2 pin spanner wrench. It came with the grinder
when it was new. They are brand specific, a Milwaukee does not
fit a Chaiwan necessarily. The wrenches are probably not sold
Best bet. Go to the store with your grinder in hand. Find a
brand that does fit your hole pattern. Order one from their parts
list. You might even ask if there is any chance that someone
returned one that might have an extra wrench. This will be much
easier with a Harbor Freight.
Alternatives. Drill the hole spacing into a steel strap and drive
two roll pins, nut and bolt combination, or other hard pins to
function as spanner pins. Another way, somehow hold the arbor
detent and stick the tips of a needle nose pliers in the holes.
Use brute force and/or a heavy screwdriver through the tips to
increase leverage. My experience is that even with the correct
wrench, it takes quite a bit of force to loosen the nut. YMMV.
Go to the store, use their wrench to get the nuts off. Never use
cutting wheels again and limit the tool's use to threaded hub
attachments. I prefer grinding disks, sanding flap wheels, wire
wheels, etc with the 5/8-11 hub anyway.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
Yes, the wrenches are sold separately. Once you get a wrench, figuring out
how to get the thing off without directions should take you about thirty
When putting on attachments to this tool, don't overtighten, or use motor
RPM to spin on those items with a spin on hub, like flappers or wire
brushes. It makes them very hard to take off. If you just turn it until it
makes contact, it will tighten down with use, and then you can back it off
with (usually) just a gloved hand.
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