HELP! I cannot grow grass!!!

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My neighbor had gardeners plant an new lawn and it's practically grown in in 2 weeks.
This was mostly for large spots not the whole lawy.
I used the Scott starter fertilizer with weed killer, new top soil, and scotts high traffic seed for where's there's full sun and shade seed for the shadier spots. Nothing.
I re-seeded and re-tillled and covered with peet moss watered alot - nothing! I cannot figure out what's wrong.
If I ask Home Depot gardening people they can't figure it out. If I ask my local small gardening center they just try to sell me their brand of seed and fertilizer.
I really would appreciate some advice besides paving the lawn :-(
Barry
And no marijuana jokes!
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the weed killer sounds a little suspect to me for some reason. i dont use any type of preemergent or weed killer or firtilizer until grass has germinated and grown to the mowing point. also, you can put the seed on top of the soil but 1/4" of soil over the seed works better i think. lucas
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the Scotts starter weed killer says that it you can grow grass, it costs 2x what the other spring fertlizer cost! - all other weed killer fertilizers you can't for 8 weeks after you use them.
I forgot that I can call scott's! I'll ask them
thanks for the input
Barry

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According to the label, you need to cover the seed with 1/4 inch of soil before applying the fertilizer/pre-emergent. It also cautions not to rake after applying. Which leads me to the conclusion that they clearly don't want the product in direct contact with the seed. Did you do this? Also, have you kept it constantly moist for a couple weeks?
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No I didn't and that's probably the reason it's not growing. I usually read the instructions but this time I didn't. If I saw that they had said that I wouldn't have bought the product and opted for a regular good spring mixture without week killer. i don't even have many weeds.
I have kept it moist but when the week killer is obviously doing it's number on the seed there's nothing you can do and this will go on for about 8 weeks now at least.
yup I'll bet that's the reason!
thanks
Barry

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Another question, did you put down the right amount of the product? If the pre-emergent was too heavy, that could cause a problem.
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I spke to Scotts and they seem to think that I over fertilized and told me to just water and cool it with the fertilizer.
regarding my neighbors fast lawn this was the second person who told me that they frequently use pure rye so the lawn grows fast but it's not a good seed to use by itself.

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Activated charcoal.
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Yup. Don't use chemicals at all, since none of them are safe. But if you insist, try and understand them first. Meanwhile, go back to a garden store and get yourself some burlap and bricks for your next attempt. After seeding, cover with burlap, hold down the burlap with bricks so the wind doesn't blow it away, and water (WITH A MIST, NOT A STRONG STREAM OF WATER) right through the burlap. When the grass sprouts right through the burlap, you'll be able to lift it right off and store it for the next use, like when the electric company digs up your lawn for some reason.
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Right! According to you, all we need is seed and mowing.
I'm still waiting for that recipe, Dug.
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You're in the business of selling chemicals, so you have a stake in this and are exhibiting a predictable attitude. But, the fact is, plenty of people grow great lawns with no chemicals at all except a little fertilizer, and without a whole lot of work. Your business caters to the lazy and the stupid.
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Everything is a chemical, including fertilizer. We offer organic only programs, they don't work well at all so no one really stays with that program.
You said, and I quote:

So tell me, how the hell does that work?

Are -you- one of my customers?
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What are the expectations of the customers who feel those programs do not work well? Be very specific.

Don't be a smartass. You know how that works.

Look - you sell unsafe products to people who believe they need an absolutely perfect lawn. Where they get this idea, I really don't know. It's probably proof of the pervasive power of advertising. If someone's got a 100x100 foot lawn and they see 8 dandelions, they go bonkers. Jeez....put down the cheez doodles, get off your fat ass and dig them out before they flower. It's not a reason to pay someone to hose down your lawn with chemicals.
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Green grass, like the people across the street that have my service have.

Sorry, you can't dodge the question that easy. Please explain how grass seed and mowing is all one needs to make their lawn look as good as the neighbors who have my service?
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I have green grass. Lots of it. Nothing added except lime (once), and some straight fertilizer every few years.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Would you like me to post a picture of my lawn? Only one section is lousy: Where the utility company dug it up to work on the pipes, and then planted with something which must've been 50% weed seeds. That'll be fixed easily this month, without herbicides.
If you actually need an explanation, that must mean you really don't understand the plant around which your career is centered. How can that be?
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pre emergent keeps seed from germinating... there is no reason to use it or weed killer during the starting process.. lucas
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snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net wrote:

The only pre-emergent crabgrass control that you can seed with that I am aware of is tupersan.
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Besides the weed killer, which is silly, you don't want to cover with peat moss. You want to till it into the soil and water, wait a day, then plant. Peat moss, when dry, will draw water AWAY from the nearest substance, which is the soil. It should either be moistened in the bag or in a wheelbarrow or big tarp (all of which is a pain in the ass in large quantities), or mixed thoroughly with the soil, and then moistened along with the soil.
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In my experience, peat moss is perfectly fine as a light top dress after seeding. As for peat moss drawing water away from the ground, that won't happen if you're watering properly. You need to keep the surface constantly moist. The peat moss will help, because it retains the water during the periods you aren't watering.
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snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote:

But then it evaporates.
Peat moss adds no nutrients. And simply laying it on top of the soil does nothing for it's structure.
Save it for your potting soil mixes, and leave it off the lawn. The peat bogs are disappearing fast enough without wasting it on a lawn where it does no good.
--
Warren H.

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