Problem replacing blower control board

Greetings,
I have an older Carrier 58ss that water from the collector leaked and made its way to the blower control circuit board. We started having a problem with the fan always being on so we called the company we have service the furnace and AC come out. When the guy turned the furnace on the blower control board shorted and started a fire(quickly extinguished). He said it wasn't worth fixing and we should buy a new, but would replace burnt circuit board and wiring harness for $800 if we insisted.
Before I get flamed for being a total idiot who shouldn't be messing with furnaces: 1) I have always had the unit serviced by the same company in the past. 2) The "expert" is the one that applied power to the board after being told of the water leak causing the real fire that smoked the board 3) I don't want to spend $4K for a new furnace 4) $800 to replace a plug in wiring harness and a circuit board that has a dealer cost of less than $100 is IMHO unreasonable 5) I am not a furnace expert, but I can read and understand schematics. I have been an engineering manager at a large electronics manufacturing company for over 20 years including several years managing a circuit board assembly plant.
The control board part was HH84AA005 is obsolete, the Carrier replacement is HH84AA021. I also replaced the tranformer(scorched by the flames) and the relay on the inducer board(corroded contacts from the water dripping down). After installation, everything worked except that there was no 24V to the Pick coil (terminal #3) of the gas valve.
While it is supposed to be a drop in replacement(if you believe the docs), the board is significantly different with additional functions and features. One big difference is that 10B1-2 that needs 24V can be traced directly to the C terminal which goes straight to ground through a plated mounting hole on the circuit board. There is no grounding on the old board at all.
Does anyone know if there is a service bullitin with modifications required to make HH84AA021 work in a furnace that was shipped with a HH84AA005? Any other insights would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you very much,
Bob
--


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At least you have one statement that's correct.

Then spend $800 for a repair... is that hard to figure out?

The company might as well do it for you for free, right?

Engineering manager, that pretty much sums up this whole post.

Missed something in the installations instructions. I thought you had a degree? Can you not read a set of simple instructions?

See above.

I bet the company that was there could have fixed ya right up, tightwad. I can't believe you called in a professional company, then tried to fix it yourself. Why didn't ya just fuck it up in the first place?

Your welcome

BTW, did you fix the water leak?
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Thank you for your warm commments and kind assistance. Exactly what I expected based how most people appear to be treated in this forum.
I would appreciate anyone out there who is not a disgruntled moron to actually address my question instead of attacking me personally.
Thank you very much,
Bob
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wrote:

Older is key. That is one of Carrier/Bryants fuckups. Anytime a water leak occurs it goes straight to the back of the circuit board and Kaboom. It fries, shorts, pops and usually takes out ANOTHER componet or two.

Bingo. You have your answer. Step away from the machine

Has nothing to do with the leak

No, the "expert" is the one that owns the furnace. That would be you. Im sure its nice and comfortable at the techs home. Nice try though trying to put the blame on the tech you skinflint.

I dont want to pay $3.00 a gallon for gas either.

Wrong Wrong Wrong. You have no idea what he paid then. I just did one this week. Same exact problem. It needed the board, wiring harness, gas valve (shorted) AND a new inducer although the inducer was froze up from another problem. Hint: The board and harness are well over $100 you retard.

Obviously you cant.

So obviously you've been asleep on the job the last 20 years.

You unsoldered and resoldered the relay on the inducer board? What an idiot.

Yeah, so obviously you dont know the secret.

Again, you've missed the "secret" bulletin on that unit to make it work.

Yes, I do know there is a bulletin out. It was actually out a long long time ago. Unfortunately, tight asses like you arent worthy of the answer. Too bad you bought your board from a company that couldnt tell you that you may need the secret repair.

Bubba (oh yeah, BITE ME)

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Bubba wrote:

No, I removed the defective replay and replaced it with a new one

Yea, well that was my question wasn't it. Since, the HVAC mafia in this forum (who seem to suffer from a massive inferiority complex contributing to their hostility) have chosen to ridicule rather than help, you can all ESAD.
BTW, I fixed it last night. One of the infidels knows your secret.
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What took you so long?
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Bob wrote:

Bob;
You quite honestly should have looked into a new furnace. The Carrier 58SS model [1980 if my memory service me correct] and is over 25 years old. And the heat exchanger in that model is likely on the verge of going south. I expect you thought the moisture from the inducer housing was normal, which it's not. The presence of excess moisture might be a cause to look for additonal problems in the chimney flu [btw is should be metal. If it's clay or is piped to a clay chimney, you might want to consider changing it.] The circuit boad failure is just the result of the excess moisture. The excess moisture is also attaching the iron firebox in the appiance as well. Take the inducer apart and check.
And $4,000 is a bit steep for a furance replacment. [Unless you live in Antartica or something.] But now you've spent $$$ and could have put that towards a new furance. A newer furance with newer features would also save you $$ on the utility bills as well. More efficient motors, more efficient heat exchangers, and more efficient burners. Less maintenace and no pilot. The 58SS has an intermittent pilot. New furances have no pilot.
You missed the calling on this one. You really should have thought about a replacement appliance.
--
Zyp



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Zyp wrote:

Zyp:
I know. Unfortunately, I have a short term cash flow issue, even the $800 quote from the company that I faithfully have had service the unit for the last 16 years is too much right now. My family was cold, I had no other choice. I greatly appreciate your sincere and helpful response.
Thankyou very much Bob
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Sorry Zyp, an 80+ (2S/VS depending on size) runs $3,000 - 4,000 installed plus tax and a 90+(Mod 90 depending on size) is $3,500 - $5,000 installed plus tax.
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Ya but heating is a LUXURY ITEM down there where you live...
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Really??? be carefull there sport, your ignorance is showing.
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Go ahead run the damned numbers heat pump vs some 90 percenter gas or oil contraption then pal.
Hehe
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How does the operating cost have anything to do with the fact heating isn't a luxury item??? Geez, where do you people come from... <rolleyes>
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Without seeing the actual installation requirements, I wouldn't say that $4k is steep. It may in fact be cheap.
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wrote:

Eat Salad And Dates?
-zero
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zero wrote:

I like dates! :) You like dates?
--
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As long as it doesn't involve Tossing a Salad.
-zero
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wrote:

Oh Goodie. Your piece o shit might run another month or two at least until the next "water adventure" Oh, and Im sure you learned the "field secret" on how to help eliminate that water problem to the board? What? No one told you? Oh my. Thats going to keep being an expensive fix. Sorry bout chur luck. Bubba
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<snip>
And it's obvious you didn't learn a fucking thing there in all that time.

Fuck you most likely all you did was spent your "career " "engineering" having production work and R&D shipped to be done overseas you asshole.
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