I need to replace my 2.5 ton air handler unit because the condensate
pan is rusted out and water is dripping from the attic. The 2 ton
compressor hasn't lost any freon in the past year and is working fine,
but I'm thinking about replacing it at the same time because both
units were installed in 1985. If I do, should I replace the existing
unmatched system with a 2.5 ton compressor and 2.5 ton evaporator?
It was suggested that I consider replacing the existing heat pump with
a regular compressor and use resistance heat from the 10 KW unit in
the air handler. I'm certainly no expert but I thought that here in
New Orleans (where the average winter low temperature is 46 degrees)
is an idea place to use a heat pump. I would appreciate some advice
on any of these issues.
I would replace it with whatever my competent licensed professionally
trained HVAC tech thought I should replace it with. Id be asking for a
load calculation of my home to make sure that my costly investment
turns out to give me a decent payback over the life of the equipment.
Personally, Id be interested in a heat pump system if you have no
fossil fuel available.
It is likely that your 'original heat pump may not have been performing
well. It the system is designed, installed, and maintained properly, then
the savings are real. Unfortunately there are may contractors who hire
people to perform related installations and repairs without the proper
training. As a result, systems are not installed and maintained properly
and fail to deliver the performance needed. The systems run too long
[sometimes] and cost more than they should to operate.
"Ashton Crusher" < email@example.com> wrote in message
Why do you need to replace the air
handler? You should only have to
replace the coil/condensate pan. I did
this 2 years ago on an air conditioning
system (no heat pump). I just put in a
new A coil. Is there a problem with
the air handler?
I dont think its so much the air handler and instead has to do with a
7.5 seer condenser matched up with a evaporator at 13 seer or more.
Thats not going to work well. Replacing just the evap is not a option
for him. His options are to pull the evap and repair the old pan, make
a new pan, replace the system. His wallet his decision.
IMO he would be ahead of the game by replacing the system.
Bullshit. The new 13 SEER evaps are a gross mismatch to his original
system SEER. You need to keep up to the times. There was an excellent
artical on this over this past summer. The bottom line was if you do
it and somehow make it work your really fucking over the customer.
God Damit udarrell. Are you that fucking stupid! You're even in the
business (suposedly). READ it again.
Its OVER 20 yrs old!
Its in an ATTIC!
Its LEAKING through the ceiling.
What do you think the inside of that rotted, rusted, moldy air handler
Maybe you're right. All the guy needs is some duct tape, caulk and a
"Ding, Ding, Ding" I think you win the DARWIN award this month.
You could "patch" what you got. You could do a lot of things. But...
If your going to stay in the house, why not take the BIG step, replace the
outdoor unit with a newer HIGH EFFICIENCY Heat Pump unit, [which by the way
can have a COP of 3 or better - and an SEER of 14 or better] and replace the
indoor fan unit and coil as well. If your contractor has his head on
straight, he'd recommend a small electrical strip heater as supplemental
heat for those cold days when the unit can't support enough heat. Not often
A heat pump unit is more efficient, and will save you 40% or more on your
electrical bill year round. Paying for itself in the long run [as opposed to
running nothing I guess.]
"Bubba" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
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