Use of the term "clon" in horticulture

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OOPS! I was off by 15 years. Here are the references for the word "clon" that I was talking about-
1. New Horticultural and Agricultural Terms (in Shorter Articles) Herbert J. Webber Science, New Series, Vol. 18, No. 459. (Oct. 16, 1903), pp. 501-503.
2. On the Spelling of `Clon.' (in Discussion and Correspondence) Charles Louis Pollard Science, New Series, Vol. 22, No. 551. (Jul. 21, 1905), pp. 87-88.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (hortstudent) in

interesting 'obscure' topic anyway.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (hortstudent) wrote:

YES!!! You rock! This reference is exactly what I was looking for. Thank heavens for obscure references. 8^)
Let me know if I can ever return the favor.
regards, Robert Dodier
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On Mon, 10 May 2004 09:43:16 -0700, Robert Dodier wrote:

Look up "clone".
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CLONING 101
the term is clone it means to take a cutting of a grow shoot with a couple leaves and about 3-5 nodes(nodes are where new leaves or branches grow from main shoot.. you can clone very easily if you have a cloning gel such as Wilson's or woods.. it can be powder to but the gel works the best as it stays on and cant be over applied.. you must cut(razor blade sterile and cut on a diagonal) the clone to be about 5-7 inch and then immediately place in water or in cloning gel(stay dipped in gel for a few seconds) then plant in a tray in what ever medium you use , premium pro-mix BX is the best, YOU can used perlite vermiculite or jiffy pellets too.. just make sure medium is on the wet side and there is a dome over the cutting(clones) until they show roots . mist daily and make sure you keep the lid on under 24hour fluorescent lights. not much intensity is need for light (2x48" hanging florescent bulbs and tray, Canadian tire, wired complete for $13.99) but 24 hours works great the best 18 is the min though to stay in vegetative state. make sure the humidity is as high as possible 100% is ideal.. takes them 10-15 days before there is lots of roots.. you can use a seaweed spray or a b1 type nutrients but if you used nutrients make sure its at least 80% weaker than normal and use a higher phosphorus formula and lower nitrogen as this boosts root development... after you see your roots you can start to slowly remove the domes for a test period of 10-20mins..then an hour ..then over half a day .. after they hold up and don't go limp they are ready to plan.. this last process is called the Hardening off stage.. making it stand up to regular climate.. you must used a no wilt or anti-damping of solution in you initial soaking of the medium and in the spray bottle you will use for the misting.. good luck
mon chichi
----- Original Message -----
Newsgroups: rec.gardens,sci.agriculture Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 12:43 PM Subject: Use of the term "clon" in horticulture

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wow I didn't realize that there are so many replies...next time I must see if there really is some one that need help before replying instead of being the 153rd person to get to the church that was on fire.. I guess I am not much help at this time

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Next week's church newsletter headline:
Julie McC Caught Advocating Cloning As Chapel Burned
elsewhere: Missing "E" found, reunited with "CL" and "ON". French blamed for incident.
[from rec.gardens]
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hey saltydog your newsletter was funny.great to see a little funny in this group instead of this "he said she said" and "your the idiot for thinking that an isosolis triangles can be hipotinosed by the juxtipos of radial circomnavigated bi-hexis millileligraphical setitaf while falicly fubulating a pondextopedic morpagrthialexic hmm-bop, silly cant you se how simple it really is..

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I got a chuckle from your church fire. But I have been known to start geometry threads, too.
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