Pullin' weeds

For the side question, I dug up a gaura in order to free it from unpullable grass, almost killed the little shrub, but it eventually returned, and so did the grass well rooted in the gaura's roots. So now I just pull what I can hoping to tire out the grass before it tires me out.

I probably do weed for an hour a week but it's pretty much arranged to not have to weed at all. All shrub clippings get mulched up and returned to the yard, in autumn leaves are repositioned where I don't want weeds to pop up in spring, and a Toyota pick-up truck load of clean compost costs very little except the labor of shoveling it all over the place. Some areas are so densely planted the weeds don't have a chance, like under the mixed hedge which is too dark for much of anything to grow though poppies do well at the shade-line so long as it's no nuisance that they lean over in the only direction for sun.

Areas unplanted are permitted to be as weedy as they like, and if I spread a garden into a weedy area, I lay down heavy cardboard and put steer manure on that and then plant it the following spring. If it's possible to make a hill, a new area I cover with a foot or two feet deep with half-finished mulch and tree branches, add some dirt, then the cardboard (and for loamy looks, inert composted steer manure) on top of that and then add a foot or so of good garden soil on top the next spring for a gardenable mound. All orchestrated to keep from weeding, yet a couple significan perennial gardens encircling the patio I just weed.

-paghat the ratgirl

Reply to
paghat
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A freudian typo, weeding for two weeks each week!

I also save interesting weeds. The orange hawkweed has not gotten established here on the penninsula, but across Puget Sound in King County it's become a pest, and in Idaho it's illegal not to get rid of it in your yard. It's SO beautiful and I allowed a bit of it to spread because no other weed (or flower) can thrive in its presence and its blooms are gorgeous. I have to stay on top of it to keep it from spreading seed, and as this gets tiresome, I'm finally going to have yank it for the BOTTOM of a compost heap. Too bad it's so aggressive as it's otherwise so lovely.

I never thought of 'em as weeds but I do have to treat as weeds seedling hawthorns, seedling hollies, and seedling Franchette's cotoneaster.

Besides out-competing some weeds including dandylion and hawksweed secret a hormone that retards the growth of surrounding plants.

-paghat the ratgirl

Reply to
paghat

Grass won't starve lavender. Lavender prefers a "lean" soil with scant nutrients. It also prefers a soil without abundant moisture. It's more likely that the grass will fail to thrive in an environment that favors lavender.

Reply to
David E. Ross

Thanks, I appreciate that. Now I at least have some sympathy as I pull up the individual grass stalks.

Reply to
Eigenvector

"

Save your back! Search the Web for "long handled precision weeder". The Weed God does not command you to genuflect in front of every weed!

Reply to
raycruzer

As he says.

I've never learned the names of most.

J.

Reply to
JXStern

Anyone know how to rid a garden of Tradescantia that has completely taken over? It leaves its roots in the ground from which new plants grow and multiply. I have tried rolling it up and disposing of it; used broad-leaf herbicides; tilling the soil, and am now thinking the only effective way to rid my garden of this pest is to completely redesign the entire garden, remove everything and start again, hopefully Tradescantia-free!

Reply to
Ian Samson

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