Replacing a double glazed unit....


Hi
I would like to replace a double glazed unit (the outer pane is cracked) - it is only about 12"x36" - a window opener on a PVC frame. To do so requires the removal of the old unit and whilst I see the white plastic 'beading' on the inside, with the black rubber gasket pressed against the window, is it really just a matter of leverage to remove these plastic strips that hold the glass in....? I am too worried about misshaping or breaking them to use too much pressure.
Also I am hoping that a local glazier should be able to make a double glazed unit of the size that I need...?
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Best wishes


Morgan
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"Morgan" wrote:

My sealed units are held in by plastic trims on the inside. To remove the plastic trims it is usually necessary to place a sharp wallpaper scraper in the middle of the trim (try a longer 36" side first) and lever the trim away from the frame in a parallel direction to the glass. They are a very tight fit and often snap into a groove when fitted, so this aint easy.

Yes, take the damaged unit in to get the length, width and depth correct. Also take the rubber seal if it is separate; some are bonded to the sealed unit.

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Thanks very much for the advice about using a wallpaper scraper, I wouldn't have thought of that.

Good thinking, if I manage to get the unit out I can then take it down to a local glazier to be matched up.
Thanks again for your help.
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Best wishes


Morgan
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"Morgan" wrote:

Oh, and you will need a rubber hammer to re-fit the plastic beading back into the frame. Probably best to start with the 12", then a 36", then a 12", then finally a 36". Obviously there is more bend in the longer strips.
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the
scraper
a
12",
======================You need to look at the ends of the beading to decide which goes in first. The mitres on the ends need to be matched to each other. Do a 'dry run' with the beadings on a flat surface to check which goes in first.
Cic.
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And also be prepared to wait. Most glaziers have to order the units in.
ken
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It does seem a good idea but when I looked close it seems that the smaller strips fit over the longer ones where they mitre together at the corners. This possibly means that the smaller, and more difficult, side pieces need to come out first. I have got a rubber hammer, thanks for reminding me of it though....!!!!!

.....ah I have noticed, since you mentioned, that one beading overlaps or is on top slightly, of the other sides - meaning the short sides have to come out first.

good point, I suppose now will be the best time with the weather being as warm as it is - security wise it is on the third floor and pretty inaccessible. Then again I will board it as a temporary measure.
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Morgan
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And if may add a couple of tips, if the glazier puts any tape on the raw glass edges to prevent hand cuts in transit, make sure you remove all traces before you fit. The glass must be able to float in the frame. Also, when you take out the old unit note and retain the plastic spacers. If they're not there, you'll have to get some and make sure you dont block the drainage holes with the spacers when you refit.
Morgan wrote:

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