I am curious about what people's favorite brand of poly is? I have used
Minwax satin, but I don't care for the finish. About 10 years ago, I did
some kitchen cabinets with a real nice poly, but I don't remember the brand.
Maybe Carver Tripp?
Anyway, recommendations would be appreciated.
I've used General for several projects and like it very much. It flows
easily, builds well and takes a nice shine. You can use it as a
(recommended) wiping poly or brush it on for a fast build, which I do in
hidden areas. It's available at Rockler, Woodcraft, and a number of
mail-order houses. Be sure to use it with a good brush.
ACE Brand coatings are superior to anything else I have ever used. This
includes marine arnish for outdoor use, deck and sidng stains, both
transparent and opaque, floor coatings, wall primers and paints.
I've also used a number of ACE finishes both for wood and for metal and find
it to be a great value. I would not call it superior to name brands in my
experience, but it's certainly a better value. Seems every bit as capable
as the name brands in standing up over time and is always much cheaper. I
wouldn't use ACE paints to paint a car, but I sure use a lot of their stuff
for other work.
I use oil-based polyurethane, cuz its usually going on over an oil-based stain.
And I like a _flat_ (*NOT* 'satin', or even 'matte') layer for the final coat
(over several coats of the much harder high-gloss).
Polyurethane in a true 'flat' lustre is *hard* to find these days. Benjamin
Moore, and ZAR are the _only_ brands I've been able to locate. Both are
'good stuff'. Retail around $45/gallon, 20% less at commercial supply houses.
Note: The flat lustre eliminates any question of a 'plastic-y' appearance of
the polyurethane. At a distance of several feet, you "can't tell" it's
there, at all.
Be advised, you'll have to _insist_ on exactly what you want. Hardly anybody
stocks the flat, and they usually have trouble even finding it in the master
price list. Make 'em keep looking! <grin> I don't have the part number
handy -- What I've got on hand at the moment is the ZAR -- the distributor
didn't have enough Moore in stock, and it was going to be most of a week
for arrival. So, I got the in-stock ZAR. <grin>
Note: repeating -- the flat poly *is* comparatively soft. You want to put on
several coats (I do at least 3) of hi-gloss first, and then *one* coat of flat.
Authoritative answer: "I dunno." <grin>
I've always used the same brand -- that way I _know_ there won't be any
My _uneducated_ guess is that it probably would =not= be a problem. On the
other hand, problems, if they _do_ occur, will, I'm guessing, *NOT* manifest
themselves immediately. Ask me 5 years after I make up a test piece, and
I'll give you an 'informed' answer. :)
In the meantime, I'll throw out that most compatability problems present
themselves quite immediately. If there are no immediate adhesion problems
and the underlying wood project does not decay into a pile of goo on the
table, then your probably pretty safe. If it does, then consider a liquid
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