On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 00:03:19 +0000, toller wrote:
We recently had to have some furnace work done in our new house. In
chatting with the guy who came, I mentioned I wanted to set up a wood shop
in the basement near the furnace. He said it is really important to have
fresh air for the intakes and mentioned there are some models of burners
that allow ducted intake air, which I guess is what you have. He said
with using such intakes should be fine. He also gave a couple stories
of woodworking customers who thought it didn't matter. His stock answer
to them is "see you in 6 months" which is about how long he says an oil
furnace burner will last in a sawdusty environment.
PS: btw, this is my first visit to r.w.. Hello to the group!
I've been doing it for fifteen years so far. Would "ducted intake air" be
the same as my cold air return ducts? The only problem so far was when my
young son spotted the bright red oil valve handle one day. Cost me $120 to
get it turned back the way it was supposed to be.
- Owen -
I'd say no. Maybe too literal in my lack of interpretation, but I picture a
duct which takes in air for combustion from outside the place heated.
Of course, I'm not a heating service man either, so my furnace has been
working 25 years without one. It's less efficient, so they tell me, but it
does help exchange air within the dwelling.
Yes, that's right. He said a large flexible hose, like a clothes dryer
exhaust hose, is run from outside the house and attached to the air intake
of the burner. Only some burners have a mount to easily allow this. Ours
Blowing or vacuuming the air intakes out will make a huge difference.
My first experience with clogged intakes was when the wife decided to
place the cat litter box and bowls next to the furnace. The intakes
became clogged with hair! <G> No permanent damage was done, but if
it goes a while, soot can build up in the chimney.
My guy showed me how to clean the intake area. I vacuum the burner
area about every 3 months, he cleans annually, and all is still well
6-7 years later.
Some ladies have no sense of humor.
I must admit that when my ex dragged his feet for years to remodel our
kitchen and I had enough, he didn't even get a vote in where the table saw
was. He did, however, get to move it upstairs to the dining room; that
seemed only fair to let him be involved. (He also did the plumbing and
had a great time assembling the copper pipe, and he helped me lift the
4x12 header into place where I removed the wall. If memory serves
correctly, he also held the upper cabinets in place while I secured them
to the wall. Unlike our sons' room in the basement, on which I did well
over 3/4 of the work, I did *not* refer the project as "ours" or "his.")
Before anyone thinks I was a bit hasty, he had promised since 1972 to
remodel the kitchen. I lost my patience in 1981 and took matters into my
own hands. Oh, he did *let* me use his van to haul plywood.<g>
Thank you for the hearty laugh, Owen, or rather thank your lady. :-)
writes:> Before anyone thinks I was a bit hasty, he had promised since 1972 to
Now I don't feel quite so bad. It took me six years to install the
dishwasher, and most of that time was just trying to figure out how to cram
it into our dysfunctional kitchen. (Last time I buy a house from someone
who made their own remodelling decisions.) But the cabinet surrounding it
is full of mortise and tenon joinery and is by far the strongest thing in
the kitchen. I believe I'm facing rework of the rest of the kitchen
eventually, and the thought of all that running up and down the stairs
because I can't measure right is rather daunting.
To be fair to myself, I didn't spend six years installing the dishwasher; it
all took about three weeks. The floor in my son's room was another story.
It got started and finished Easter weekend. The floor one year, the trim
two years later. However I'm rather proud of myself. These are projects I
My wife "let" me put a trailer hitch on her car; I haul plywood in a utility
trailer now. The truck concept flew about as well as the dining room
By the way, Happy New Year everyone!
- Owen -
All of the commercial shops I've seen have had natural gas and/or
wood heat (those with wood heat were more what I'd consider
"factories" than "shops", and they burned hardwood scrap).
I have some difficulty thinking of myself as a "pro"; but my shop
/is/ a commercial shop, so I guess the label might apply...
I don't produce enough scrap to heat my shop (that's a gloat!) My
primary heat is from solar panels; and I have a natural gas
furnace to provide "make-up" heat. The furnace (a 100kBTU Reznor)
has piezo ignition; and it's shut off during, and for some time
after, opening or using any volatile materials.
The point I was trying to make is the "sky is falling" bunch that thinks a
furnace in a woodworking shop is a bad idea!
A pro shop probably has a paint booth IF they do any finishing them selves.
Other than that differance they all need heat too!
So the prophets of doom can run and hide, but I see no problem with a
furnace in a wood shop, as long as some thought is involved!
If you are doing finish work you should have some fresh air ventilating the
shop for your own good. I often open a window, crack open the door, and
leave the heat on. It gets the fumes out, fresh air in for me, and no worry
about blowing myself up!
Right-o. My (rented) shop space has no windows and the door is a
generous 45'x12', so once it's been opened, the shop cools down
fairly quickly in winter. I worked through the first winter
without the furnace; but often found myself having to choose
between wearing heavy gloves or working with numb fingers -
neither option seeming particularly safe. I gave the furnace a
/lot/ of thought before installing it.
Good plan. Most of my stuff is coated with paint that doesn't
present much in the way of fire hazard. The furnace draws its
combustion air from the shop; and so helps draw in fresh air
while it's running. When I need to spray volatiles I shut down
the furnace, do my spraying, set a timer to restart the furnace
the following morning, and go home. The structure is leaky enough
that after twelve or fourteen hours it's safe to run the furnace
I can understand how people who work with alcohol/acetone/toluene
thinned finsishes can (and probably should be) nervous; but I
agree with you that a well-designed, properly vented spray booth
or room is probably a much better solution than working in the cold.
My dream would be in-floor heating. Being able to use below-ground as the
heat source as they did in by-gone days would be ideal. I'm really
considering some day down the line of doing just that. It would mean
raising the garage floor for the extra concrete to hold the piping which
needs some careful thought but could work. In 1976, after buying my
Mercury Bobcat, I took a powderpuff mechanics class at our local college.
They have in-floor heat (electric there) in the shop and it's great!
On Sat, 01 Jan 2005 22:15:27 -0800, email@example.com (Glenna Rose)
I spend way too many winter evenings laying on cold concrete under a
car... (I restore & build cars as a hobby)... Spending a few thousand
dollars on a 4 post lift has kept me off the floor for the last 15 or
so years...lift worked so well I now have 2 of them plus a low level
lift just do do brake work with...
My wood shop however is now located on the second floor over one of my
garages ..heated by a 116,000 BTU natural gas furnace BUT my feet
still get a little chilly ...Guess I can't have everything...
Just make sure that it's repairable. I have a friend who used to have
in-floor heat in the house her father the architect built (not sarcasm-he
really was an architect and apparently a pretty good one--if his design
went bust anybody's can). One day one of the pipes busted and it turned
out that she could have forced-air heat and central air installed for not a
whole lot more than it would cost to tear up the floor and fix the pipe, so
she doesn't have in-floor heat anymore. Note that that wasn't just the
contractor's opinion--her brother, also an architect, agreed with the
Reply to jclarke at ae tee tee global dot net
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