I think I made the disclaimer about any place where the IBEW has a choke hold
on the politians. Chicago is the prototype.
#2 is New York City.
Most of the country is on the NEC. Florida took the extra step to say the whole
state is on the unamended NEC in their unified building code.
>I was planning
You couldn't do that in the NEC either. It specifies that kitchen "small
appliance circuits" (serving the countertop) SHALL be 120v 20a GFCI only.
Where were you going to find kitchen appliances with NEMA 5-30 plugs? You also
can't put a 5-15r or 5-20r on a 30a circuit.
Be sure you get receptacles listed for 10ga terminations. That isn't the 43
cent one. It is the ~$2 one, (commercial/spec grade) but you should be using
them anyway in a shop. Your plugs will run cooler and last longer. Don't back
stab the devices, Use the screws. Some back wired devices do use screw
clamping, they are OK. Just not the spring type.
Call the County building department on Forsyth and ask for the
electrical desk. It's 889 something. If you decide to do it on the up
and up, there's a home owners test you can take and do the work under
I don't have any direct knowledge of their test, but generally the 'home-
owners' test is _not_ terribly difficult. It's a basic "do you know what
your'e doing", for the kind of wiring found in residential use. Any of
the commonly available do-it-yourself books on home electrical wiring will
probably cover 90%, at least, of what you need for the test. Browsing
the relevant ordinances is also useful. Don't worry about memorizing _all_
the details, that isn't necessary.
If you're not comfortable relying _entirely_ on your own judgement _after_
you pass the test, hire a real electrician for a 'consultation' on "how to
do what you want to do", making it clear that you're not asking for a
proposal for _them_ to do the work, but that you're *paying* them to tell
you how they would 'do it right', so you _can_ then 'do it yourself'. The
general form of the discussion is "Here's my plan of attack, what would
you do differently, and _why_?" Crux is that _you_ are the "decision
maker", and are responsible for anything that happens. They are *not*
telling you "what _you_ need to do", just 'how they would do it'. Big
difference -- they have potential liability if they tell you "how you
need to do it", and you follow their directions and something 'unfortunate'
happens. OTOH, when their participation is limited to stating "how _they_
would do it, if they were doing it", they don't incur the potential
If you are really thinking that way the answer is to install a sub panel in the
shop. Then adding circuits later is trivial.
There are more worms in the can with this approach but then you are just
running one feeder back to the main panel. Voltage drop is not that much of an
issue and breaker count is a lot less in the main if you are running out of
Cost is probably a "push" if you are installing more than 4 or 5 circuits.
I realize this may be getting late on a reply, but I just finished
wiring my new shop, relativly large by many standards, but I already
wish it was bigger....
Anyway, I currently have 8 120 V circuits supporting 32 duplex
outlets. I haven't installed anything for lighting yet but am
planning on at least 2 circuits (I am guessing I will have about 3000
watts of lights installed eventually (combination of fluorescent and
halogen). I have 2 - 20A 240V, 1 30A 240V, and 2 50A 240V outlets
What you are asking for isn't too much by any idea.
Lights should be on their own circuit in case you blow a breaker
operating a tool. You don't want to be groping around in the dark,
waiting for a machine to coast down, or find the switch before
resetting the breaker...
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