My shop is a 20'X24' garage with two insulated walls, and no isulation
in the ceiling. I live in Western Wisconsin, so it gets colder than a
mother-*$&%#$ out here. I'd like to find a semi-portable method of
heating my shop so that I don't have to stop working all winter. The
building is a rental, so I'm hesitant to install a big heater that is
going to be too tough to take with when my wife and I buy a house
(probably next spring). The shop has a chimney (though I have no idea
why) so I may be able to use that for a vented heater.
I only need it to be heated to, say 50 degrees or so, just enough to
keep me from freezing solid, but I want the heat to be relatively
safe, and to try and keep my tools from rusting when I heat the
building up (It will only be heated whn I'm working). Electiric heat
is out, because the electrical service is not the best, and I don't
want to trip the breakers every time I use a tool, so I think I'm
going to need propane or a wood stove.
I've seen the tube-type "jet" heaters before, and they seem to work
pretty well, but is there another type that may be safer to use around
wood that would work? I can't say that money is not a limiting
factor, but I'm willing to invest in the right tool for the job at
hand. I'd love to insulate and sheetrock it, but the wife says no
way, since I don't own the building and we intend to move fairly soon.
Thanks for any advice!
I've used one of those propane powered radiant heaters the past two winters.
The biggest problem I've learned to deal with is condensation. I discovered
my precious pattern rasps had rusted while in a drawer as well as some of my
metal cutting files. Also, some moisture will condense on the cold iron of
my Unisaw so I have to watch that. I put a carbon monoxide detector next to
where I work and it never has indicated any CO.
I use one too for the initial heating of the shop. And I'm in the
Yukon. See the top of:
for what I mean. I use the 17,00 BTU unit in my 14'X28' shop.
Once the temperature is up, I use small ceramic electric heaters
(which you might not want to do given your 'lectric problems). No
problem with condensation, but we have really dry air. If it's been
going for a few hours, I will often open all doors to "blow out" the
hot humid air when I leave the shop. You should see the fog it creates
when it's 40 below zero outside!
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 21:47:32 -0700, Mark & Juanita
Fine, you can keep the scorpions and rattlers in your back yard. And
the monotonous weather. When you're outside, it's a lot easier to get
warm at -40C than to cool off at +40C. Fire, you know. Oops, I forgot.
You can't make fires. No trees where you are. (OBWW) No thanks. ;-)
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
But he said the electric supply is questionable.
5000 watts = 17,000 Btu. (it needs 21 amps at 230V) Not enough to keep
that size building warm in very cold weather. I have a slightly smaller,
partially insulated garage. When the temperature is in the teens, the 30,000
Btu propane heater is not enough. You can get larger units for not a lot
more money. That would be my choice today, probably the 80,000.
Other option is a wood burner. That assumes the chimney is in good shape
and you have a decent supply of wood to feed it. The heat is not as instant
as propane as you have to get the fire going and get that hunk of metal up
to temperature. There could be a 30 to 60 minute lag to reasonable comfort.
Long wait if you just want to putter in the shop for an hour after dinner.
Even with my propane heater, at times I have to wait 15 to 30 minutes until
it is bearable out there.
I have a similar situation with a 30,000 Btu heater. It will NOT maintain
50 during the day in CT. He is in Wisconsin with similar climate. I can get
a 20 to 25 degree temperature rise. When it is 5 degrees outside, it is not
going to be 50 inside. If you live in a mild climate, it will be plenty. WI
is not all that mild.
In addition, when you leave the space unheated for a long time, you lose the
latent heat. It takes a very long time to re-build than especially with the
mass of some of the heavy tools.
On 3 Oct 2004 15:28:18 -0400, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
No, as in heat held in the thermal "mass" of whatever it is you have kept
warm. Objects with large mass tend to hold heat for a long while, thus the
reason one would use rocks or water to store heat from a solar collector.
Once lost, it takes a significant amount of time and energy to rebuild the
heat in that mass. Since woodshops contain some fairly large tools
containing a lot of thermal mass, once heated, they will stay warm for a
while, conversely, once they give up that heat, it takes a long time and a
lot of energy to warm them up again.
Not exactly, it is often very inefficient to have to restore heat lost
from massive items.
Latent heat is the heat associated with a change of phase.
Sensible heat is the the heat associated with a change in temperature.
It takes 10,000 Btus to evaporate a pound of water.
It takes 10 btus to raise the temperature of a pound of water 10 degrees F.
He said the ceiling was uninsulated.
I would bite the bullet and stick some 6" batts in the ceiling. You can always
take them with you when you leave.<g>
Get 5 4x8 sheets of the rigid insulation they put on flat roofs under T&G.
Stand this up across the uninsulated front side of the garage.
For under $300 you have an insulated room.
You could even do the ceiling with this rigid stuff.
It's actually pretty cheap for about R18.
About a third of the price of the pink or blue stuff at the Borg.
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