I am using some coat pegs that measure 0.493". That is a pretty sloppy fit
in a 0.500" hole, but other than hoping I can find an undersized drill bit,
I am not sure what to do about it.
Presumably the glue will swell the pieces a bit; but will it be enough for a
The pegs are a bit too expensive to waste one on a test.
You're talking about a 3-4 thou gap, I think the glue will fill this
just fine. However, don't count on the swelling - it may swell at
first, but it will shrink back again as it dries and regains
If it bothers you, use epoxy instead of yellow glue. Epoxy is
structural, yellow glue isn't.
I do not know where you are. Here we have a cold winter and hot summer.
During the winter the house heating system works a lot. Even if the pegs
measure 0.50 outside dia. they do shrink to the point that they do fall out.
To cope with this change in temperature and wood expansion and contraction I
have use a dab of gorilla glue. This glue does expand and flex when the
ambient temperature changes. Any expanding glue sold by other manufactures
should do a good job. The chair doctor glue as stated earlier on this thread
is, also, a good choice. I also keep all wooden dowels, pegs and biscuits
in air tight container stored in ambient temperature.
As for odd size pegs I make them, when needed, on the lathe and size them
accordingly with the drill bit allowing for a snug fit.
> I am using some coat pegs that measure 0.493". That is a pretty
> fit in a 0.500" hole, but other than hoping I can find an undersized
> drill bit, I am not sure what to do about it.
Don't sweat the petty stuff and don't pet the sweaty stuff.
Drill 17/32" dia holes and use epoxy.
Bill in Detroit wrote:
> I can see using the epoxy but I have to marvel at the wisdom of drilling
> the holes, already slightly loose, .031 larger than they already are. Is
> this to give the epoxy room to swell?
I have found that stronger joint are formed when thickened epoxy is used
and joints aren't starved.
If this were my job, would probably add a little Cab-O-Sil (fumed
silica) to the epoxy to thicken it, then pour some in the hole and push
the pin in allowing the epoxy to ooze totally around the pin.
BTW, why would epoxy swell?
The only time I used any coat pegs they were a tight fit, and the
tenon flared out a bit just below the flange. I glued em, but the way
I had to drive them in I think they'd have stayed in there for my
lifetime without any glue.
I think I'd try a 31/64, give the bit a little wiggle to enlarge it a
tad, ease the edges of the peg and drive the sucker in there. Will
depend on the two woods how much you can compress the fibers, and the
size of the board and location of the hole how much you risk splitting
Perfect time for epoxy ... you will then be able to sleep at night and not
worry about it.
Until I snapped to epoxy, some joints that I did in years past still niggle
me a bit at the odd time.
Also, the pegs will get (just before glueing) a hit from some
sandpaper so the glue will adhere?
Two good possibilities: saw a slot in the peg, and wedge it
slightly (the wedge and slot will be hidden in use).
Or, get the right size drill. 12.5mm is .492125 inch, should
work well. 31/64 is .484375, so if you rough the
peg with some 80grit sandpaper, it'd work, too.
To get an accurate diameter hole in wood is not easy, unless
you use Forstner or (sharp) auger bits. To do it with twist drills,
first make a pilot hole with 13/32", then clean it up with the
fullsize drill. Wood is capable of grabbing and steering the
bit that removes most of the wood, but a careful hand-held
drill job that removes only the last .080 or so should work well.
31/64 is too small. I can probably sand it down to fit as you say.
But I am tight on the depth and wanted to use a forstners bit to avoid
cutting through the backside.
Not that anyone will see it, but still...
I will try some from a different store and see if they are better.
Thanks to all for your help.
Do you have a wooden handled hammer? Look at how the handle is attached
to the head. Use the same technique. cut a slot in the end of your
pegs. Cut some wooden wedges slightly larger than the slot. When you
assemble the parts, the wedges willl spread the two halves of the
slotted peg enough to tighten them in the holes.
a 0.500" hole, but other than hoping I can find an undersized drill bit, I am
not sure what to do about it. ...
Try using a "fox wedge" --- that's a concealed wedge in the tenon that
expands the tenon to jam tight in the hole. Only make sure the wedge
doesn't bottom out and prevent the tenon from seating completely.
A couple of hints: Saw a slit in the tenon across the grain for the
wedge to fit into ... Don't make the wedge from a hard, brittle wood
like cherry. Use a wood that will give and compress slightly. I find
red oak works fine.
If they go in a blind hole, saw a slot in the end that goes into the hole.
Insert a small wedge in the kerf such that when you tap them into the hole,
the wedge is forced in. A little glue along with it and they're there for
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