I've seen several posts in the past suggesting using a Scotch Brite pad and
ROS for rust removal on Table Saw surfaces. Never paid much attention to
the details. My brother called to ask how to get the rust spots off his
saw. seems a skylight in the shop cracked, and his saw is directly in the
path of the drip.
When I looked I was amazed at how many different "Scotch Brite" pads there
are, in all sorts of different levels of abrasiveness.
Does anyone have information on which would be suitable for cleaning up a
I heard #0000 (4). Why #000 (3)?
I also heard about finishing (before waxing) with 600 grit wet/dry
sandpaper. Any thoughts? Is that overkill? My table saw top has swirl lines
(looks like it was made that way at the factory) across it (it's not smooth
and shiny similar to say a stainless steel texture like on the Grizzly
G0444Z). Would the sandpaper help that (if not rust)?
By "white" Scotch Brites, do you mean the "delicate-duty" ones?
And then (after all the scrubbing), paste wax. I've heard Johnson's but what
about Minwax Paste Finishing Wax? Is there really a difference?
Reason for all the questions is that I want to have a complete game plan
before I begin.
There is really no difference between 000 and 0000 (IMO) when doing the top.
I actually go a bit beyond extreme sometimes.
I do green to white to 000 then I go to wet/dry paper to about 1000.
(I actually did my saw 1 time to 2000 - basically a mirror finish)
Then wax (any paste wax will do)
the 2000 w/ wax was great - it was like glass - wood would slide
effortlessly across it.
It seemed to keep the rusting at a minimum also.
Until last winter where it went from 20 to 50 in 1 day - water was basically
pouring off all my iron from condensation.
Now I only go to about 800.
What grits do you go through?
Green Scotch Brite (WD40)
White Scotch Brite (WD40)
#000 or #0000 (WD40)
??? grit wet/dry sandpaper (WD40)
800/1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper (WD40)
paste wax (no silicone)
BTW: I have webbed cast iron wings. For these, do I just knock the rust off
and wax them (skipping the steel wool and sandpaper steps)? Seems like they
would be a PITA.
Arrrrgh! Those are horrible, cheaply-made Chiwanese wannabes.
I went through a couple packs removing the stain and poly
from my parents' dining set a long time ago.
I got hooked on the 3M Scotch-Brite 7447, the 6x9" maroon pads,
when I worked for a body shop. The painter swore by them and
showed me, the wrench, how well they worked for derusting tools.
I now prefer the super-fine gray (000) Scotch-Brite pads. 3M,
Mirka, and Norton make them and all are high quality.
If anyone buys a box of gray (7448) and wants to trade half
to me for some 7447s, please let me know. I use fewer of the
Russ at www.woodfinishingsupplies.com sells boxes of 20 Mirka
Mirlon pads for $16.45. I think Scotch-Brite was $18.
http://www.autotoolexpress.com/3-mmm7448.html has the grays for
The Borg sold the 3M for $1.99 a pad, over twice the price.
Vidi, Vici, Veni
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On the "Not Built In Chiwan By Defenseless Little Children"
Powermatic No. 141 band saw I used a single blade razor.
OK, I used several. The table is rust free has it's patina
and a mirror finish.
They work WONDERFULLY on any metal. Sometimes I use the maroon on
heavily rusted steel but generally the green is my preferred. They
REALLY shine on sanding sheetrock mud-the dust just drops thru it!!!
Also some use them in place of sandpaper although I prefer sandpaper
myself. Also work great on removing corrosion off brass, copper, etc..
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