WRONG - The wood is held tightly against the fence prior to the cut, and
the direction of feed is parallel to the blade. If you look at the wood,
it's actually free of the fence, where it _might pinch and kick back_ off
Only if YOU have the brains of a gnat and and reach behind the blade. The
rest of us read the books - the same ones that tell of a pinch relief (did
you read the instructions for the Jet-Lock on your UA100?) - and know that
no pressure is ever applied after the cut. The piece unrestrained.
Now, in a non-nit-picking world, if it gets touched by a tooth, it has room
and the tendency to to move laterally out of the way. If you provide
relief on the fence side, within limits, the same condition pertains to the
You could try using your eyes to observe what's happening at your saw.
Or you're not through-cutting?
I can see you missed that, even though it was explicitly stated - there is
geometrically only one point which defines the width of a piece passing
between a cutting object and a fixed obstacle. With the router, it's the
easily observed point of tangency, which is why it's a clear analogy, with
the tablesaw, it is the point at which the leading tip of the blade exits
the wood - unless you're foolish enough to allow it to pinch between the
fence and the rising teeth thereafter....
George, you're not making sense. It doesn't happen the way you describe
it -- unless your fence is bent or if you don't use it to guide the
workpiece. Otherwise, if the wood doesn't bend when cut (yeah, big if),
then the work stays against the fence for its entire length. The gap
occurs between the workpiece and rising teeth of the blade, not between
the workpiece and the fence.
I personally have done exactly this, both with the fence parallel to the
blade and with it splayed out a bit. My observations simply do not jive
with your claim.
No pressure is needed on the workpiece behind the blade to keep it
against the fence. Think about it -- if the workpiece is straight and the
fence is straight, and the workpiece is against the fence in front of the
blade, how can there be a gap between the workpiece and fence behind the
blade? Try this -- move the fence away from the blade, or lower the blade
below the table, and set a straight board against the fence. Push the
board against the fence only in front of where the blade would be. Is the
board touching the fence at the back?
so your wood only touches the fence at the front of the saw? on my saw
that point is a good 8 or 10 inches away from the blade.
what you are describing is hardly different from freehanding the cut
or working with a starting pin.
um... no. the piece is restrained (at least until the board is in 2
pieces) by it's own structural integrity.
by the way, you don't help your cause by resorting to invective. it
just makes you look like a poopiehead....
; ^ )
I do. I keep the wood against the fence it's entire length.
Hey Bridge, one of the definitions of insanity is,
"performing the same task over and over again
but expecting different results".
Now I know for certain I'm just a wee bit insane but
I'm not insane enough to try and sway Bay Area George.
Sides, it's too cold outside to break out the sidewalk chalk
and then there's the snow covering that would need removing.
UA100, on to fight another day...
It can be (somewhat) adjusted out with the holddown bolt. ;)
Hey, who said that?
One could also simply cut a piece of wood, grab their dial
calipers,and check variation front to back. That's what I
did to originally set up Dina's old cast arn fence to within
a couple thou. Paper shims aren't fancy but they do the job.
Now that I think about it, the spring-loaded indicator should
pretty much take care of that. Yes, the TSA would be quite a
bit nicer, but not $150 nicer to me. (Them's -crowbar- figgers,
So what if it isn't? You're making -relative- measurements, not
looking for interference fits in tenths here. (Within an RCH
is fine with me. You?) You could do just as well with a bar and
a set of feeler gauges IF you know what to look for and how to
set it up.
* Blessed are those who can * Humorous T-shirts Online
* laugh at themselves, for they * Comprehensive Website Dev.
* shall never cease to be amused * http://www.diversify.com
Ed won't get him, he is too busy workin 18 hour days trying to keep up
with the demand to bother readin a news group. I have the Jr and
ordered the upgrade to Deluxe a while back but am still waiting, got an
email from him that he is way behind and trying to catch up.
I have the Jr and use it where I can and it saves time for me. there is
no guess work about it being square and accurate as I would have with a
home made jig. I have medium priced tools that can be made to work
better than "out of the box" by using a setup tool.
money well spent.
charlie b wrote:
Well I would have to agree with Larry and Mark. I set mine up with a good
sliding t square and a piece of perfectly flat acrylic 4" x 10" with a 5/8"
hole dead on center. Acrylic was free, I have a good square already along
with the bit to drill the hole. Although it could be done with the blade on
I'm sure. I set the fence the same way, ran a board, and measured with three
different steel rules, all accurate with each other. Results were dead on
accurate. I then borrowed my neighbors Junior, and guess what? The end
result was within .003. I don't think that's too bad. As a matter of fact,
it's livable. It netted a complete kitchen, bedroom suite, dressing room
furniture...the list goes on. Just my nickel's worth, take it as it is. BTW,
my shop is an all Ridgid shop, with an occasional Craftsman, or Crapsman,
tool thrown in for good measure! ;-)
"Cartoons don't have any deep meaning.
They're just stupid drawings that give you a cheap laugh."
I'm lucky, I work in a machine shop and made my own. An indicator and
dovetailed slide mounted to a base. It will ride in any sized slot, and
it's square vertically to .001. Maybe I'll post a couple pics in the
Matt Zach wrote:
Imported dial indicators and so cheap nowadays it's hard to argue not
to have one for the $10-15 or so they cost, but really, to set up a
tablesaw you need nothing more than a good combination square. I use a
DI myself but got equally good results when I only used the combo
square in he past. Some people get good results just using a piece of
wood clamped to the miter gauge. See any good tablesaw book for details,
I like Kelly Mehlers book.
Now, if you really need to know to "how many thousandths" your saw is
adjusted, you will need the indicator and some type of fixture to
hold it, either shop made or something like the TS Aligner by Ed
Bennet. But if you just want to set up your saw to cut wood, you don't
really need to know the numbers.
FWIW, I don't own one myself, but the TS Aligner Jr is probably one of
the better buys if you want to purchase something.
I use a Starrett Dial Indicator on a Magnetic Base to set up the
TableSaur, as well as all the other crap that thinks that it needs to
be set up proper-like.
It has it's own way of describing the world, which I think is in
thousands, but I freely translate them into the tradtional RCH or my
current standard, "A Gnat's Ass", "A Little Less Than A Gnat's Ass",
or, "A Little More Than A Gnat's Ass".
The "AGA" standard has served me well and acknowledges the fact that
wood doesn't think in thousands of an inch but in "Gnat's Asses".
I've been working on an aftermarket overlay for the Starrett that will
provide the more useful readout in "GA's" but that is still in the
developmentally challenged state.
I look forward to completing this work in the Spring, as the shop is
far too cold for this sort of thing right now and the dial indicator
is reading in "FGA's" (Frozen Gnats Asses) which are something smaller
than "GA's", owing to the shrinkage of the associated members, which I
am sure that you are acquainted with, as it is a common problem.
I've been working on an Excel based graphing solution that will give a
readout of "AGA" v. "FGA", with a time/temperature curve giving the
probable solution - but this work is going slowly.
Thomas J. Watson-Cabinetmaker (ret)
Real Email is: tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet
I use the Harbor Freight dial indicator (#623-0VGA) and it works fine.
I also have the HF magnetic base (#5645-0VGA) which I mount the
indicator on to check the arbor, flange, and blade runout. I mount the
dial indicator to a big 'L' bracket and clamp it to my miter guage to
check the miter slot-to-blade, miter slot-to-fence alignment. Both the
indicator and base work great, and they're currently on sale at the
local HF for $6.99 each. I think the regular price is about $15 or so
for each item.
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