Folks with money usually buy a TS-Aligner. Instructions
(and sometimes a video) are included.
Bottom feeders go to Harbor Freight, buy the $10 push-stick
safety kit (with the featherboard in it, and you need
push-sticks anyway), and add a $10 dial indicator. Run a
bolt through the featherboard, mount the indicator, and set
your blade to the table. Then check alignment to the fence,
check for 90° and 45° angles, etc.
Your library should have some table saw tuning books by
Kelly Mehler, Jim Tolpin, Kenneth Burton, etc.
Understocked library? These can be had through WoodWorker's
Book Club. Their special is 3 free books, buy one, and pay
shipping. Total cost for 4 books: $17.98 (Such a deal!)
Disclaimer: No business affiliation but I'm a book club member.
Or check the sites listed here:
No matter how hard you try, you cannot baptize a cat.
http://www.diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development
I'm with you, Larry.
If more people had some imagination they wouldn't need all
the fancy tools.
For the price of the Jr setup I could get Starrett
components and mount them to my miter slide. I would also
have one helluva lot more versatile tool.
For a BUNCH less I could go to Harbor Freight, spend a
helluva lot less on the same setup and have just as
Folks, your not getting a Starrett or Brown and Sharpe
indicator with the TS-Aligner, your getting a Harbor Freight
quality indicator. Look at the 90 degree fitting on the web
page, it's not at 90 degrees.
You could do better gluing/ epoxying a bent nail to a cheap
But hey, it's your money. Just don't brag about being ripped
Got any slop between your miter slot and the bar they provide
for it? If so are you checking that the blade is parallel
to the miter slot or the slop in the bar?
The TS-Aligner has three bearing that ride in the miter slot,
two fixed and one adjustable left/right. Eliminates ALL the
slop. It can be configured for other set up functions and
the dial gauge provided ain't no cheopo.
I need all my imagination for coming up with furniture ideas
and how to make them. Set ups are not my favorite thing
to do and making tools in order to do the set ups is a
waste of time - for me.
About that slop thing?
I seriously doubt that you'd have one helluva a lot more
versative tool. Check out the TS-Aligner info a bit more.
Oh Ed's gonna get you now. I assure you that the
comparison would be more like comparing a craftsman
contractor's saw to a Unisaw or PM66 - with a sliding
table. Make that a Felder.
Sometime in the near future I'm sure Ed Bennett's going to
respond to your uniformed description of his fine product.
I think the responses have been unanimous - the TS-Aligner
is a great set up tool at a fair price for what it does
and how it does it. I must've missed the post by a
Got any slop between your miter slot and you miter gauge? I've never seen
one that didn't. This fascination with thousandths of an inch when working
with wood is laughable. An engineer analyzes the problem and determines a
reasonable degree of accuracy necessary in his calculations and doesn't
waste time or energy or money to achieve unnecessary accuracy.
I do appreciate that it is fun and "neato", but lets recognize that that is
all it is. I once calculated pi to over 10,000 digits. It was fun but
completely unnecessary. I could calculate the diameter of the universe to
less than an inch using pi with just 30 decimal places.
While there may be slop between the miter gauge and the miter slot there
is little to none between the slot and the TS-Aligner. Further there is
none measurable between a good fence and the blade. The benefit of the
TS-Aligner to me is that with it I can set my blade very accurately with
respect to the miter slot and therefore my fence.
I can work to 0.001 with my setup after aligning with the TS-Aligner.
(Humidity changes not considered.)
Much of good woodworking, if thoroughly thought out, is based more on
precision than accuracy.
I realize that. If one expects 0.001 accuracy with a miter gauge,
obviously they are whacked.
As can I with a dial indicator clamped to my miter gauge and steady
pressure applied to the miter gauge to keep it to one side of the slot,
which is all the mechanism in the TS Aligner does.
I don't see that you addressed my larger question about the necessity of
having the fence and the blade parallel to 0.001" Especially in light of
the fact that most manufactururers recommend a 1/64" or 0.0156" heel in the
I don't see the need for the blade and fence to diverge by 1/64". They
certainly shouldn't have negative heel but being parallel (or 0.001
divergent) is fine for me. Along with this statement is the one that
says use feather boards and/or something like a RipStrate.
My relatively uneducated guess would be that the other side of the
blade has nothing to hold the wood against the blade. As I
understand it, the lift is only part one of a kick back. Part deux is
trapping the lifted / turned board between the fence and the rising
blade, giving more for the blade to grab.
We all know what happens next! <G>
But it does. The operator is holding the wood against the
fence. The fence is out one end to the next (1) by 1/64th.
By holding the wood against the fence the operator has
unwittingly set himself up to have the wood pressed against
the blade on the "non-fence" side of the cut. All this is
going on with a fence purposely mis-aligned? (question mark
used to emphasize why anyone would do something so foolish)
Anyone want to check my math on this?
And by forcing the wood against the blade (from either side
of the kerf) we have set Part one into motion.
(1) I hope it's 1/64" over the length of the fence and not
over the length of the exposed portion of the blade. "That"
would be really stoopid.
Just say (tmPL), if you are that concerned about a kick back
then do yourself a favor and install/make a splitter. If
that doesn't keep your undies dry then consider a short
fence for rip cuts.
I agree. Note that I didn't say I did it, only what the common
thinking was. I also believe they're talking the length of the fence.
I tune my fences with wood. It's simple and it works for me.
Starting with the fence exactly parallel to the miter slot, I rip a
board. I then check the board and waste for burn and blade marks and
Works for me, others have other methods.
Biesemeyer says they'll have a snap-in splitter for my saw "soon", I
can't stand the stock version.
If it didn't work, I guess it would be debatable. Since it does, and has,
and anyone reaching far enough to push the offcut into the back of the blade
would be a fool, I don't think there's cause for alarm.
Just think of it as creating a shorter blade. The wood does exit at the
rear in any case, without the dire effects you imply.
I keep remembering a thread on how to keep the fence on a router table
parallel to the cutter. Same thing - only one point counts in cutting.
There certainly will be undesirable effects if the fence is splayed out
too much (and I'd say 1/64th is close to too much).
Really? Ever look closely at the waste side of the cut and see burn
marks or saw marks arcing upwards? That indicates the rear of the
blade was contacting the wood, as it certainly will in the situation
Unisaw is speaking of.
Geezus, not me! I need to drop my pants just to count to eleven. :)
If the fence is clear of the blade? Do you realize that the piece does not
touch the blade after it's cut because the edges of the teeth are proud of
the surface? Seems everyone has the fence "splayed" after all.
Though there is always a number who can't or won't think, any of you folks
who can push a straight board up against another and make one end climb away
_without a fulcrum_ get back to me.
NB: I won't allow you to be stupid and push the corner of the board.
it ain't the body of the blade that's gonna bite ya- it's the teeth on
the backside of the cut- those ones that aren't supposed to be cutting
at all, the ones rising up out of the saw with all of the vengeance of
that 3HP TEFC 220V power behind them and curling around and spitting
straight at your face.
you really don't want those teeth rubbing on *either* side of the cut.
splitters, riving knife, whatever- use it. and keep the blade aligned
with the fence. dead parallel is my preference, but heel it out a few
thou if it tickles you. just never let it pinch.
Really? I've ripped wood that wishboned out behind the blade and I've
ripped wood that "X"ed behind the blade. I've ripped wood that one
of the cut curled up and some that curled down. Even though you may
start with a nice flat board with straight edges and square corners,
there can be all kinds of locked up stresses and strains in it which
can be released when ripped. The results can be quite surprising.
I've got a riving knife that wraps around the back top quarter of the
blade as insurance. I often use the Draw-Tite magnetic hold downs/
hold ins as well and a GRRRIPPER for short pieces or narrow strip
I really hope Jason gets the wood-workers.com site back up. I had
a whole section on all the factors I could think of that can
to a kickback and then what can be done to minimize the likelyhood
of that happening. Some of the factors/parameters are not very
obvious - until one of them makes you aware - nothing like a scar
to remind one of things not to ever do again.
An example of a less than obvious kickback type - earlier someone
posted a message about his push stick kicking back into the palm
of his hand. It had sharp corners at the top - a quick and dirty
scrap push stick. Those corners lead to six or eight stitches.
If the handle had been big and nicely rounded he might have
had a bruised, sore hand - but no blood loss or possible nerve
I guess you meant to say "For purposes of this discussion, I won't
allow you to be stupid ...". I reserve the right to be as stupid
as I choose to be and nobody's gonna take that god-given,
constitutional right away from ME! :) <-- winking emoticon to
indicate the writer is just kidding.
I think you've misread the point I was making. Here's the
Table saw has fence out of parallel to the blade by 1/64"
over it's length.
The operator is pushing a piece of wood against the fence
(from the operator's side) and into the whirring blade.
As the wood passes the blade it is still being held against
the fence (from the operator's side) and will be held
against the fence for the entire cut.
When the wood exits the back side of the whirring blade the
freshly cut edge to the fence side is indeed not rubbing
against the teeth of the blade.
The other side of the kerf, the side without the fence, is
now rubbing against the teeth.
I'm unsure how else to say it without the aid of chalk.
If you are running wood between a turning router bit and a
fence you've either got balls the size of church bells or
the brain of a gnat.
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