Quick question. Could I apply something over the shellac (if the shellac holds) in order to make it more water reistant. Btw, how not water resistant is shellac? How long does a little puddle of water have to sit on a shellacked piece before it starts to penetrate or deteriorate the shellac?
Thanks, Harry
Not a strong finish, but wax might waterproof the paper somewhat. The epoxy I mentioned in the other thread might penetrate the paper as well. Might be easier to just get some wood and make the stand yourself.
What is the surface you are tryig to cover? You might try a first coat of dewaxed shellac like Zinssers SealCoat before the poly.
In that case I would suggest clear contac paper.
Using shellac seems to be the general consensus. I've read that it's possible to dewax shellac yourself. If I can't get my hands on dewaxed shellac (I'm more or less limited to what Home Depot or Canadian Tire carries ... unless I want to drive far) could someone tell me how I would prepare normal shellac so that it would accept a coat of poly over it. Also is there any real difference whether I buy dewaxed or make dewaxed shel , xcept for time of course ... or in other words, which one is better?
Thanks, Harry
Great idea.
I vote for Steve's method.
Barry
Harry, I've been following this 'thread' for a bit and it's really starting to get ridiculous. You are spending so much effort on something that is de facto 'disposable'. {unfortunately, depending on the extensiveness of the fish collection. . . it probably includes them, too - if the life span of my wife's Beta's is any indication}.
'Particleboard' is basically sawdust mixed with water-soluble glue. Mix it with water and it turns back into it's constituent parts. Putting a piece of 'colored paper' on top isn't going to stop that process. Putting a waterproof film on top of the paper simply means that the top layer of paper fibers will separate . . . first.
Our tank {although rather small, remember that fresh water weighs 62 pounds per cubic foot, or 8 pounds per gallon}is sitting on an antique 'lacquered' tray. The tray is sitting on an antique inlaid table. No problems and everything 'fits' the decor. The 'antiques' ? - 'collected' or given over the years . . . the 'eye of the beholder' sort of thing.
What we have for a 'coffee table' I got at 'K-Mart' a year or so ago. NOT exactly an 'heirloom' item . . . Teak - made in the Philippines, so that is actually Luan - in the 'Mission' style. Cost? - about $30. Less then getting the wood and building it myself . . . and it is SOLID wood. And I would guess about what the particle board & paper Wal-Mart / Chinese table cost you.
FWIW - chalk this entire situation up to a 'lesson learned'. Take all the advise you have received, and go to some Salvation Army or 'church outlet' shop and get yourself something a little more substantial. It may be perfect just the way it is. However, if you pick carefully, if you do have to 'refinish' it . . . there will be some 'meat' to work with.
Having particleboard furniture and water together is like having bare batteries in your bilge . . it's simply matter of 'When' your going to get burned !!
Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop
wrote
even worse! :)
dave
Harry Muscle wrote:
dewaxed is more water resistant. it will not desolve with water just look bad. I am thinking the rattle cans of clear spray would do it. but I think something in sheet form will make you happier.
no not again (G)
First off, thank you to everyone who's following this thread and providing help. I tried applying the shellac last night, however, it beads up. If I spray just a thin layer it forms droplets on the surface. The only way to get a smooth surface was to spray so much shellac that it creates a puddle almost 1/16" thick. It did seem to stick better to the surface when I tried scratching it this morning, but the layer of shellac is so thick it looks really funny.
What materials would cause shellac (and water based urethane (Varathane brand name)) to bead up, while polyurethane goes on nice and smooth but doesn't stick well. Could it be wax? Or are there some plastics that shellac won't stick to (I though shellac would stick to most plastics)? I'm gonna start a new thread trying to find the answer to this one.
Thanks for all the help, Harry
P.S. I also wanted to say thanks for those comments pointing out the possible futility of spending all this time on something that is not even made of real wood. However, this project has now reached a "challenge" level where I would like to find the answer just to find the answer.
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