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7140 SW Macadam Ave
Portland, OR 97219
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4380, 4386, 5100, and 5550 SW Macadam Avenue
Portland, OR 97239
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Macadam is a premix and is hot spread and rolled. Chip #1 and #2
is oil and spread of chip rock. Dry rock is spread on top or onto
the old surface with hot oil tar sprayed on top or on the pavement.
On 4/1/2015 4:44 PM, Markem wrote:
Technically, "macadam" is just a crushed rock surface. If
tar is added then it's "tarmac".
In modern usage, tho, "macadam" and "tarmac" have become
synonomous, since no-one uses plain crushed rock any more
(pneumatic tires tend to pull crushed rock apart, whereas
steel wheels and horseshoes compacted it further; hence the
replacement of macadam with tarmac following the advent of
I have crushed rock in my long driveway. All limestone. It flattens
out as the weight of tires crush it into place. The small chunks and
dust glue the mass together.
I can eat it up with my tractor tires, to much weight on thin ridges
that are designed to fit into the ground/mud.
I had granite in the front 600' - it was never put in correctly and
is just sinking into the mud. If a pre-mix of fine dust and crushed
granite is laid down first - sinks in and forms a solid base, then the
rock is added to that stable base.
My driveway is 1400' to the house. Another 12-14 around two buildings
and back out the the main driveway. That second section is slowly
On 4/2/2015 9:44 AM, John McCoy wrote:
We did the same in Santa Cruz mountains - we tried it ONCE with
the oil on top and went back to oil on the bottom! Our area
was all private roads as was Hwy 9 in the 50's.
On 4/1/2015 3:22 PM, Danny D. wrote:
Martin Eastburn wrote, on Wed, 01 Apr 2015 22:51:54 -0500:
What they seem to do here, in the Santa Cruz mountains, today, anyway, is
spread the gloop first, and then put the rocks on top, and then sweep the
loose rocks away.
The rocks ping against the cars for weeks thereafter, sometimes months,
depending on the road use.
On Thursday, April 2, 2015 at 10:17:59 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
I'm not exactly sure what they are doing in my long-cold-winter area, but i
nstead of filling the mid-winter pot holes with dark black asphalt, I've se
en a few towns use a very light grey mixture of rocks and "I don't know wha
t it is" binder. All I know is that the resulting fill is lighter than the
grey that asphalt turns after a few years.
I suspect it is an epoxy resin of some sorts. Many of the quick patches
are that way - in a bag until needed - mix it in a wheel barrow and
instant patch that glues down even on wet pavement. Most people use
a torch stick to heat the hole dry and melt the sides a bit.
I used to buy a bag or two a year to fill in areas and even extended
my long driveway on one side with it. It was a dead end and had set
their machine for the return run just outside of the driveway - the
On 4/2/2015 10:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Wednesday, April 1, 2015 at 9:35:40 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
Since you don't need anything up the sides of the cane, these Soap Box Derb
y brake pads could be cut into circles, then drilled for a flat head machin
e screw which could be screwed into a threaded insert epoxied into the bott
om of the cane.
These brake pads are made of conveyor belt material and are about 1/2" thic
k. Any similar material should work.
You can see the brake being applied if you look under this car in the follo
wing picture. The pad is screwed to a 3" x 3" steel plate at the bottom of
a steel shaft.
A single pad is used to bring 255 lb cars travelling at 25-30 MPH to a stop
via downward pressure on the road. They last 15 races or more depending on
the road surface. I imagine that they would last a very long time with the
relatively tiny amount of pressure - and no real drag - of a walking stick
Soft rubber grips good, but wears quickly. Hard rubber will wear better,
but will not grip as well. A lot depends on how and where you use it - if
you tend to drag the stick over rough concrete or twist it when you put
weight on it, it won't last very long. etc.
That said, different brands of cane and crutch tips wear differently - and
there's no readily disernable differences in the tips themselves.
You may find a tip that lasts longer, but it may have a problem slipping.
How does the tip fail? Does the metal sleeve cut through? If so, look
at smoothing the bottom of the sleeve and putting a fiber washer under
it as a buffer.
At the handle end, would something like a bicycle handlebar grip work?
What about another rubber tip without the metal sleeve?
Fred McKenzie wrote, on Tue, 31 Mar 2015 11:50:27 -0400:
I think a wine cork tip will fail within a week, but, the rubber cork
stoppers that we used in chemistry class may last longer, if I can find
them in cheap bulk quantities.
The metal sleeve is brand new (just put on Monday, only yesterday.)
What happened before was that the rubber tips wore thin from being used
on hikes by the wife. They holed in about a month (often less time than
that). I usually left them on for another few weeks, as they still
afforded some protection to the wood tip end for a while longer, even
The metal tip was to prevent wear to the wood, as the stick still works
even as a wooden stick. The problem is that it will crack and break over
time, so, the point was to put the metal to protect the end, and to make
a uniform size for the rubber tip.
A bicycle grip might work. The wife changes hand position, so, it's
probably best not to put any grip. The whole point was to enjoy the wood,
but, unfortunately, it cracked from being stored in the house, I guess
(very dry here in California these past few years).
Epoxy and micro-balloons.
1) Open up the crack by removing ALL the failed items you have tried.
You need a clean rough surface.
2) Mix up some slow epoxy and wet out all the cleaned surfaces
3) Take the remaining mixed epoxy and add micro-balloons mixing as
you go until you have a mixture the consistency of mayonnaise.
Using a paint mixing stick or equal, apply thickened epoxy as req'd to
fill crack completely allowing 10% overfill.
4) Allow to cure 2-3 days, then sand smooth.
5) Wet out a piece of leather and wrap the repair.
No suggestions for tip.
Lew Hodgett wrote, on Mon, 30 Mar 2015 18:28:08 -0700:
One problem I failed to mention is that sanding is out of the question
simply because the allure of the manzanita is the thin dark bark
(which the wife loves as it's one of her favorite woods).
Googling what a "micro-balloon" is ... I see they're a fine glass powder.
Can you buy them at the big box stores?
Sand off the excess epoxy putty, not the wood.
BTW, if you cover the repair with leather, you don't have tom be so
careful how you sand.
"Danny D." wrote:
Definitely NOT, you need to find a fiberglass supplier.
Got a boat builder in your area?
There used to be a couple of major yacht builders in Sweden.
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