Hello all. I'm working on an arbor to "frame" a set of French doors on
the front of our house. It is a simple design of Craftsman/Asian
influence. I've worked with Ipe before on an outdoor bench and table.
At local lumberyard I can get nominal 1 x 4 and 1 x 6 boards. I've
poured two footings using sonotubes and have sunk J-bolts for 4 x 4
Simpson brackets for the two posts. My idea is to use either pressure
treated or redwood milled to 3" x 3" and then wrap 1/4" ipe edge
mitered on top, Gorilla glued and brad nailed. My question is for the
"base" lumber, would it better to use PT or redwood. I could use my
thickness planer to mill a 4x4 piece of redwood to 3x3. Or I could rip
redwood 2x4 to 3" wide and laminate two together. Or I could rip PT
2x4 to 3" and laminate them to make a dimensional 3x3. After the post
situation is solved I've got the rest of the design and construction
figured out. I'm going to use Penofin oil to "seal" the ipe. TIA for
It's a good thing I didn't know that when I did quite a bit of ipe
gluing on a deck five or six years ago.
The wood was sold as "Ipe" from Ipe Depot. It was glued with Titebond
II immediately after jointing. I may have wiped some of it with
solvent, but I don't think I was consistent on it. None of the glue
joints are structural, but are on horizontal, flat deck boards fully
exposed to midwest weather. Five or so years later, the glue line on
some joints is visible, but all joints still appear to be sound.
I also wrapped the edge of a round part of the deck with 1/4-inch ipe,
glued with construction adhesive. It, too, appears to be holding up
We'll see what the next five years bring.
Ah yes, I did some testing of many adhesives a few years back for an
extreme application, wood to stone, and now I always keep a tube of
the winner, liquid nails, around for those odd jobs where I need a
quick permenant fix.
I agree. But you've really got to be wet behind the ears if you think
this request will accomplish anything.
Or badly in need of a life if you know this won't accomplish anything
but feel compelled to try.
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.
Maybe its just the reader that I use but I hate it when folks don't
top post. I'd rather read than scroll. I'd rather write than scroll.
I suppose I am blockable if you are so set against it.
No offense taken nor intended, just exercising the same freedom you
exercise to complain.
Personally, I don't care one way or the other with the following caveat...
It makes sense to bottom post, in order to see everything in order.
However, I get so sick of people not editing their posts. You have
someone who replies to *and quotes* an entire "six page" post, only
to say, "me, too!"
In the case of this (my) post, I deleted the repeat crap that everyone's
read, anyway (if they're following) and left only the pertinent info to
which I am referring. If they're new to the thread, they can go and
read all the other posts, like everyone else did.
I have found that most "non-editing, six page quoters" are using a
web-based repeater forum like google-groups or any of a dozen others.
And it seems they can't figure out how to delete and quote properly
using the web-based thingie.
OR, people are on a regular newsreader and are just too fricken
lazy and inconsiderate to edit their posts.
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
I read the group from a tree view and I can see who responded to what
and in what order so I don't need all the context, inline, over and
over again. I guess if you are reading from email or some other method
it just makes sense. (Top posted).
I'm glad you've had a good experience with it.
I suspect that, as it says in a couple of the posts on the WoodWeb
thread, that the species you are getting in the midwest are different
than what we are getting locally.
What we get is extremely oily and the oil bleeds to the surface soon
after it is worked or wiped with denatured alcohol or acetone.
We've tested isocyanurates, various epoxies, West System, TiteBond
III, etc. We've tried the Timesaver with 60 and 80 grit and we wiped
with both denatured alcohol and acetone. We were unable to get a bond
that we could trust for gluing up for width or thickness.
The last job we did was 4000 bd ft for a roof top screening job in
Manhattan and we just decided that we couldn't afford the exposure of
gluing up. So we paid beaucoup bucks to get the stuff in thicknesses
and widths that we could use without gluing up.
I like Ipe and it gets used a lot in city work because it has the same
fire rating as concrete and steel. It's also damned near as hard and
hard on tooling.
We even thought about using sliding dovetails to join the sticks up
into panel widths.
Once you start thinking like that it's time to do some more thinking.
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