I think the Beismeyer is better. I've had a friend complain that the
Unifence has a little bit of flex at the far end of the fence (after
many years of use). He showed me, and sure enough, it did flex. He
ended up buying a Biesmeyer to replace it. Note, he had a unisaw, so
this was the heavy-duty unifence (they make beefier versions for the
unisaw vs the contractor's saw).
I have a biesmeyer and love it.
Supposedly, the selling points for the unifence are that you can slide
it forward to start a cut and you can rotating it for cutting thin
pieces. Can't say that I ever missed those features.
I cut thin stuff just fine on the Beisemeyer.
Note, I'm not saying the unifence is crap, as I'm sure it has many
happy users as well, but that's my slightly biased opinion.
For what your using it for, the unifence should be fine. Although
unifences do have a tendency to wear out where the lock mechanism catches
inside the front rail. I've only noticed this problem happening after
years of using the same measurements. ( In a cabinet shop, it's roughly the
18", 24" and 36") For part time woodworking, unifence should last for
Beis is a good alternative.
Personally, i prefer Vega. Simple and very effective.
Hope this helps, --dave
I agree on the Biesmeyer
My Bies has been in use now for close to 15 years and I have
never...not even once had any trouble with it..
BUT to be truthful I stopped looking at fences the day I installed
mine... SO there are most likely more then a few on the market
today that are just as good.. (Can't figure how one could be
Bring cost down would be a real good way in my book...that's what kept
me away from all the replacements. (I have a roughly 25 year old (Gosh,
how can it <possibly> be so long already!) Model 66 and the fence is
"ok, but not great" but I can't see 25-30% the cost a a new saw for just
a fence... :(
I will respectfully have to disagree with you on this one. A POW 66
sells for around 2000.00 and you can buy an industrial 52" Beisemeeyer
fence system for less than $350.00...this is less than an 18% of the
cost of a new saw. Putting a precision Beisemeyer fence on a tablesaw
and replacing a jet lock fence is different from night and day. You
would be getting a saw that is a pleasure to work with and save you the
time and trouble of measuring each time you move the fence. "You get
what you pay for"...."ain't no secrets"...bringing down the cost would
only cheapen a good quality product......I have a certain amount of
time that I get to do woodworking for me.....I do not want to waste it
being frustrated.....besides I am worth it!!
Mike from American Sycamore
Yeah, I was still in the time warp of what I paid in (I think) '78 when
I wrote and didn't even think about it being wrong... :(
It (a Biesmeyer) may be worth it, I'm still unable to bring myself to
pop for that much w/ as many other things demanding $$ as there are...
If the Pow 66 fence is zero'ed, it's scale is close enough for the way I
make 99.44% of the cuts I make using the fence so it isn't a real time
factor from that view point. The thing I dislike about it most is that
it is tapered slightly from bottom to top so making auxiliary fences,
etc., is more of a pita than it should be...
I've seen better. The Bies is the best thing I've ever seen on a consumer
saw, and I kinda wish I had one, but I've seen fences on industrial stuff
to make the Bies look downright flimsy. Of course, the stuff I'm thinking
of makes Unisaws look downright flimsy too. Ah, if only I had 440V and
some place to put the stuff. :)
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < firstname.lastname@example.org>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
OK how about this. Dual encoders (one front and one rear) tell the micro
processor when the front and the rear of the fence are in exactly the same
spot. An entry on a key pad (Dust and water proof of course.) is all you
need to do to get and exact fence adjustment. Read out on control panel
also defines blade height and angle.
About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
On Tue, 18 Jan 2005 22:11:35 -0800, "Roger Shoaf"
|OK how about this. Dual encoders (one front and one rear) tell the micro
|processor when the front and the rear of the fence are in exactly the same
How useful is a zero length fence? (Sorry, couldn't help myself)
I tend to agree.
I have a Uni at home that I use when my Wife makes me and a Beisemeyer
on the job that I use every day. I would not take the Uni to the
The Uni is accurate but the rail system is not as heavy as I'd like on
the job. Also, the Uni just seems to be over thought in it's design.
The feature of rotating the fence for narrow stock IMHO is a totally
useless feature and I have never used it. This also requires two
pointers on the measure indicator for use depending on which way the
fence is installed. Mine currently has a piece of tape over the
pointer I don't use.
The Uni also slides into the rail system from the front. It has a
heavy metal finger that goes into the groove on the front of the
rail, you then turn the handle which turns the finger so that the
fence cannot come out. To lock the fence you just push down on the
handle as you would expect. To remove the fence you release the
handle (pull up) and then you have to turn the handle so that the
finger is in proper position to be removed from the rail. I'm so used
to just lifting the Beisemeyer that the Uni now seems a pain.
Since the prices for these two fence systems is very comparable, (at
least on the Delta saw packages) I would (will) always go for the one
with the Beisemeyer.
I've got a Unifence on my Unisaur and the biggest complaint I've got is
attaching anything to it. For that reason I'd go with the Biesemeyer
given the choice over. It appears (from the later New Yankee shows) that
Biesemeyer has added a cut-off fence attachment (to perform the same
function as sliding the Unifence) as well as an auxiliary fence that can
be used as a "sacrificial fence" for use with dados. See:
I'm probably going to upgrade to a Uni-T-Fence (from Might-T-Track) at
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