Hi folks,After much lurking, and answering a few posts, I've got a questionthat I have't seen:I finally got the scary sharp system to work (at least semi-ok). Iused the following grits:100,150,220,320,400,600,800,1200,1500,2000, and some finer stuff, butI don't know the grit. It may be overkill, but I didn't take too longwith any of the grits (except for 100 and 150!). Now that thechisel(s) are sharp, I've got a few issues;1. How do I tell when the chisel is dull (other than it doesn't cut aswell - I'm not the most experienced to know). I'm looking for adefinitive answer (if there is one)2. What grits do I start at when resharpening?3. I played around with a microbevel. At what point do I resurface thechise?thx in advance,shelly

You might just make a strop and with yellowstone (or whateversuits you). A few quick swipes and you're good to go.S.

what grits to sue when re-sharpening.

Sep 08, 2008 23 Replies

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sheldon.mandel 17 years ago

so far, so good... with the chisel that came out the best, I can even do that to oak

only went to 800. time again to experiment

thx shelly

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Jim Weisgram 17 years ago

[...snip...]

Actually, the softwood is a better test than a hardwood like oak; if your edge isn't sharp, softwood will just kind of crumble away. The hardwood will stand up better to the not so sharp edge and you can get some kind of shaving.

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sheldon.mandel 17 years ago

tried both, worked both times!

shelly

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Stuart 17 years ago

I recall when I was at school, many, many moons ago, the woodwork teacher used to show how he could shave his forearm (dry, with no effort) with a chisel or plane iron after he had sharpened it

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