I've used a toothbrush and find it takes more time and
"flicks" then I have patience for. I use model paints
(enamel) because the consistency is perfect and the spots
don't spread out like stains. There has to be a better way
to fling small specks QUICKLY. I don't want large
splotches, so I've not tried any larger brush.
back when I built sets for the film industry, I would see the scenic artists
doing specks using a paint brush with rather long bristles, after dipping
the tips of the brush in paint, they would hold the brush in one hand and
strike the other hand flicking the paint off the bristles. It seemed that
the viscosity of the paint was the secret. For really large areas, they
would put the paint into a Hudson sprayer, hook that to the suction line of
a paint gun, pump up the pressure and use a very low atomizing pressure to
the gun, hence droplets.
Thanks for the green tint tip.
Ed, thanks for the suggestion. Hope the green tint gets you
the color you need.
I've taken to mixing all my own water based dye stains this
year instead of relying on solvent based pigmented stains.
I use mostly oak and find that the contrast between the
early and late wood is more than I prefer. I picked up some
Transtint dye (liquid) and some dye powders, including basic
colors like yellow, ruby red, and green so that I can modify
the stains to my heart's content. I just refinished a 100+
year old chest for SWMBO that turned out to everyone's
delight, by mixing and re-mixing until I got that "golden
hue" I had in my mind's eye. The only PITA I find is that
deep pores don't take too kindly to water based dyes, even
with a bit of surfactant added.
If you do a lot of work that require small specks, I'll bet you could modify
one of those cheapo touch up airbrushes that have the small glass jar.
Remove the jar and feed pressurized paint to the gun directly. I believe
that the airbrush would give you the small specks you need. Keep the
atomizing air very low and you should have excellant control over the
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