Watco Danish Oil on pine

[phildcrowNOSPAM]

I began finishing a toy box last night (white pine, 18x18x36) with Watco Danish Oil. I bought a quart can for just that purpose last week.

Apparently, a quart won't be enough. I put about 2/3 of the can on it last night, and I'm still not seeing much buildup. For the first bunch of coats, I rubbed it on (the finish) with a rag, and by the time I made it back to the start, the oil had been completely absorbed by the wood. For the last 2 coats, I got frustrated and used a paintbrush. For the first, I painted it on, let it sit for a half hour. Completely absorbed. For the second, I let it sit for 45 minutes, and I wiped the toybox down. There was only a little bit of oil on the rag.

For danish oil, should one follow the 'once a day for a week, once a week et cetera' adage, or is that for "real" oils only? Am I over the hump, or is this toybox going to keep drinking oil like I drink coffee?

Thanks,

-Phil Crow

[Who]

In the past I have used Watco oil on pine and on hard woods. I found it took about a half dozen coats to get a good finish. My experience was to let the first coat sit for a couple days to a week to let it polymerize somewhat so the next coats don't soak in quite as much. I now mix my own. For a start I use

1/3 boiled linseed oil, 1/3 either odorless mineral spirits or turpentine, and 1/3 varnish or polyurethane. To get a faster built the next one or two coats are half that mix with half varnish (1/6 BLO, 1/6 thinner, 2/3 varnish). You can play with this ratio to get what you want. The final coat is the same as the first. I apply with sandpaper starting at 220 grit working up to 600. Wipe clean after each coat.

What I don't like about Watco is they don't use deodorized mineral spirits and I can't stand the smell. I like the smell of turpentine and it seems to work a little better than the mineral spirits.

I have some projects that I have done 30+ years ago. With what was Watco then (formula has changed over the years) seems to have held up well. I do put a coat of wax on top. A new wax job every couple years keeps everything looking good. I think the oiling schedule you quote is for plain oil without the varnish or polyurethane.

For a sample of some of my projects see:

the top of the page is a link to more projects.

Ray

[Teamcasa]

Its a little late but pine will soak up oil finishes like a sponge. In the future, use a coat of thinned shellac or a sanding sealer first.

Dave

[bridgerfafc]

Ray wrote:

I've also been down that road. more and more I'm tending to get the oil out of the finish and go with turpentine/varnish blends for topcoats and use watco as a stain only. if you need the flexibility of oil, like for parts that bend in use, use spar for the varnish. with the varnish thinned enough you can get the same penetration as watco, with faster drying and better build.

[Vic Baron]

WOW! Not only are you prolific in your work but it's beautiful. You have a rare talent.

Thanx for sharing -

Vic

[George]

Friend told me the regular WATCO had gone back to phenolic resin, versus alkyd under Thompson-Minwax. Anyone have a can around to read the back? I liked the phenolic.

[Al]

I gave up I did use the conditioner first as you need to with pine it just looked nasty and splotchy. After talking to a cabinet shop I went to a differnt stain and got pretty much the results I wanted. I still have all the Watco I purchased I have not used it on anything since it just doesn't cover worth a darn.

Al