OK, time for a (gasp!) woodworking topic :-).
I'm about finished building 7 bookcases for our library in the family
room. I want to fasten them to the wall for safety.
The standard angle brackets would work fine, and be high enough that they
couldn't be seen from below, but it just didn't seem to fit with the
image of the maple/birch cases.
I happened to glance at my Kreg jig the other day and got an idea. Take
a 0.75" x 1.5" by 3" piece of nice hardwood, taper it to half a torpedo
shape, put a Kreg hole through the large end to fasten to the wall and a
couple of vertical screws through the body to fasten to the bookcase.
Repeat for other cases.
OK, it's overkill and nobody will see them, but I'll know their there :-).
Does seem like overkill... but I'd mostly worry about splitting the blocks.
How about a French cleat that lets the case pretty much rest on the floor
while holding the case to the wall at the top? That would make it easy to
level all the cases to each other. Some shims and a base molding would
finish off the bottom.
Your insurance company may thank you for it one day.
This is one of the biggest liability issues that a cabinet/furniture
needs to take into consideration when delivering and installing projects
for a client -- whether there are children in the house, or not -- a
safety/anti-tip mechanism is a must for ALL tall cabinets/bookshelf
systems that are free standing and not built-in.
Personally, I even refuse to leave a tall bookshelf or cabinet in
someone's home unattended, particularly with children in the house, and
have a policy that these items are not delivered until they are ready to
install, and they are fully, and safely, installed prior to leaving the
premises for any reason.
I know for fact that Leon and I think alike on this issue as we have
both helped the other in installing our large projects, and we both
always have come up with a solution to that problem to fit the project,
well before we ever walk in the door.
Many ways to tackle the issue, sounds like you have a good solution for
your situation, and were conscientious enough to think of it in the
first place ... be surprised how many don't.
Mikey likes it.
Living in shake rattle and roll country, securing things to walls is
of primary concern and that includes water heaters and wall
On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 13:16:53 -0500, Swingman wrote:
Oh I definitely would have fastened it one way or another. I just wanted
something a little fancier than an angle bracket or the suggested screw
through the shelf. After spending about $1500 in wood and supplies for
the 7, I thought they deserved better :-).
Precisely Larry and you never know if another real woodworker, like
yourself, may come behind you one day to remove or move those book
cases. You want him or her to know that you were concerned about all
aspects of the build..
On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 21:19:39 -0400, G. Ross wrote:
Good thought. Hmmmm. In my case it isn't on carpet, it's on a basement
floor with vinyl tile. But it might move someday, even if only after I
die. I do have levelers but that would be a PITA.
I never heard of an auto-adjustable wall fastener. But if I used longer
screw into the top through clearance holes and left 1/4" or so exposed,
that should allow enough downward movement for carpet compression.
Perhaps with a little printed note explaining why the screws are sticking
BTW, this house is old enough that the "vinyl" tiles are "vinylbestos".
The consensus says as long as the surface is unbroken, leave them alone!
On Wednesday, August 6, 2014 12:29:34 PM UTC-7, Larry Blanchard wrote:
Could mount a shiplap strip on top, to make a rib next to the wall.
Screw a mating strip to the wall-- like an upside-down French cleat.
Or short brackets screwed to the wall, if appearance is better that way.
The strip would hold the top-shelf books a bit forward, but allow 'em to
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