DAGS and no responses so here goes.
Anyone have any experiences with the newer Veritas Sharpening system,
Just curious to know how well it works. I would be using it, or
something similar to do mostly chisels and plane blades.
I spent some time looking at it at the WW show last weekend.
It's nice, well built, and blah, blah, blah.
However it appears that sharpening a wide blade like a plane blade
will be tricky due to the relative linear speeds of the wheel against
the blade. That part of the blade close to the center of the wheel
will get much less grinding than that further out. Technique may
be able to compensate - I don't know for sure.
The real gotcha for me was the price. $400 buys one hell of a lot
of sandpaper for scary sharp!
I was thinking the same thought. Might just shoot Lee Valley an email
to ask. They've always come through on questions like that.
Yes, the cost would sure buy a lot of paper! But it seems to take me
forever to get a plane blade sharpened. Of course, I'm sharpening
blades from Ebay planes so I suppose they usually need a bit of work.
I think I'll keep working on my technique!
Thanks for the reply.
Just want to correct a few "errors" in your (and other) posts...the links
were all to products with Canadian pricing.... (you'll notice a CDN "flag"
in the upper right corner - click on it to switch to US prices)....
The $400(CDN) sharpener is $299US -
Veritas tool rest - $38.50 USD
Veritas grinding jig - $18.50 USD
Any comments on the concern about different removal rates in relation
to the location of the blade (ie. part of the blade is closer to the
spindle vs. the far edge. Seems to me you'd get different removal
rates)? Thanks very much. Always refreshing to see you
participating in the discussions!
it seems to me that the section of the blade that is in contact with the
part of the disk that is moving slowest would be the limiting factor. i.e.,
that part of the blade would control the speed the blade lowered onto the
disk, assuming it was not hand held but clamped in a rest.
I have one of these (the Mark I, which I paid for!) and haven't noticed this
"effect" at all. Since the platters are flat, and the sharpening substrates
are relatively thin - there's just not that much room for variation... for
the edge to be significantly uneven, there'd have to be a "dishing" of the
platter, or a rocking of the blade/tool being sharpened.
I have your apron plane with the A2 iron. It is a delightful tool, a real
joy to use.
I typically do not put a micro-bevel on my edged tools. I sense that the
apron plane might perform a little better if I did use the micro-bevel on
When you developed the tool, was the use of a micro-bevel a consideration?
I sharpen with EZ laps and a leather strop charged with a sharpening
compound. It fits my technique to free-hand lap the irons. If I stay with my
current practice it is easier not to use the micro-bevel. :-)
I agree with you - I prefer my apron plane to the LA version...use both, but
generally reach for the Apron plane first. Don't tell anyone though...we
make more on the LA plane ;)
I do put a microbevel on my plane blade. No matter how we sharpen any blade,
there'll always be another (equally acceptable) way to do it... What we have
stopped doing is grinding the factory bevel at lower than normal angles
(say...20 deg). We used to do this, as we had thought it was much
faster/easier for the customer to establish a secondary bevel at whatever
they wanted (greater than 20 degrees). The "problem" we ran into was that
many people just maintained the factory 20 degrees - a bit shallow for
I have a Mk II which I'm still trying to evaluate whether to keep. It
seems I have problems getting the micro-bevel to come out aligned just
right with the primary grind. I've checked the guide alignment, the
plattens are new, double checked the mounting in the jig, etc --
everything I can think of. It is very useful for changing primary bevels
(especially older plane irons that were sharpend God knows how!) at the
coarser grits. But I'm not sure that's enough utility. I'm finding it is
difficult to use for flattening the backs, I'm still using the
waterstones for that. And since I'm using them anyway, I'm leaning
towards doing the whole job on them. It would also be nice if there was
a finer finest grit than 1200x. Just my experience so far (from someone
who loves your low angle block, 4 1/2 plane and other tools).
Robin Lee wrote:
Thanks for pointing this out. The Lee Valley site has always come up
for me in US$ in the past and I guess I wasn't paying attention this time.
It's really easy to overlook the currency flag at the top of the page.
James, you may be starting with too fine a grit of paper on your
ScarySharpening. When I
need to fix a badly nicked tool I start with 220 or even 180. It doesn't take
too long if
you move up progressively through the grits, not skipping any, and changing
degrees with each grit (helps make sure you've gotten rid of all the previous
Thanks Bob. Sometimes I have to start as low as 80 on some of these
plane blades. Often, I get them and the previous owner has beveled
them at some god awful angle and I literally have to re-bevel them.
Hence the huge time sink.
I'm liking the idea of a bench grinder...although if the MKII does
this as well as get me close to the final sharpening, this may be an
I would also be interested to see if anybody has tried it out.
You might try searching for their original sharpening system. For
some reason it got the nickname "NUSS," so DAGS on that.
email@example.com (James Cubby Culbertson) wrote in message
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