Varnishing Quilted Maple?

[toller]

I bought some quilted maple and have sanded (to 220) and varnished a scrappy piece just to see what it looks like.

There are a few small spots, that correspond to the deepest figure, where the varnish doesn't adhere well. I applied two coats (of wipe on), than sanded (with 320) and put on third, but rough spots are still there. The unvarnished wood seems perfectly smooth, so I don't think it is a matter of using finer sand paper.

Am I doing something wrong or is it the nature of quilted maple?

Really pretty though.

[Jim Polaski]

220 is still a bit coarse. Try getting down finer after you've sanded so that the whole surface is smooth.

With nearly everything I finish, I get down to 600 because I sort of "polish" the wood first before putting on finish. The first coat goes on a bit heavier, and then sand starting at 220 or 320 and get to 600. Tack cloth, and then more finish and sand, etc. until I get 4-6 coats and then it really starts to be smooth.

FWIW, I have a mandolin made by Flatiron when they were in Bozeman, Montana and it's back, sides and neck are made from Quilt. The finish is like a mirror and shows the tremendous figure since the instrument was made for a NAMM show.

Keep sanding...

[George]

Probably just varnish soaking into some exposed endgrain. You say "wipe-On", does that mean the severely thinned stuff? If so, as has been said, twice is not enough.

I wouldn't bother polishing the wood - polish the finish.

[Gary A in KC]

My own experience working with quilted maple - have done a lot of it lately. Western Maple (where the quilted stuff comes from) behaves a lot differently than the more traditional hard eastern maples we usually use. It's a much softer, more open grained wood. I've found the grain raises rather dramatically with the first coat of just about any finish. Best result is after your last sanding, wet it to raise the grain, sand lightly with 220 or so, then repeat. Only then should you bother to start the finishing process. As far as how far to go with sanding. Not much reason to go beyond 220 (as long as done PROPERLY) if you're using a surface finish like a true varnish. Then you do your sanding/polishing on the built up finish. But if you're using a wipe on oil type finish, taking the sanding to 600 grit or so gives you a good burnish on the wood, prevents it from absorbing as much of the wipe on finish and allows you to get a quicker build of the finish. For a couple of quilted maple jewelry boxes I've built recently, I've done this: Sanded to 220, raised the grain once with water, resanded with 220. Then gave the wood a thorough soaking with Deft danish oil. Then I use the Beall buffing system and buff the finish out. The final look really makes the figure pop and the beall carnuba wax final buff really puts a good gloss on the piece.

Just my 2 cents.

Gary in KC

[Abe]

-------------- Use a light coat of sanding sealer before applying the finish.

[toller]

I put on 4 more applications and it finally looks fine. In fact, it looks great.

I will however try the other suggestions when I have some time. Thanks for your help.

[Never Enough Money]

Hmmm. I must confess some ignorance. I've heard of spalted maple, wormy maple, hard maple, and soft maple. But I've never heard of quilted maple. What is it? I have not consulted Bruce Hoadley's _Understanding Wood_ or any other source, mainly because I don't have them and I don't want to drive to the library. Thought it might be easier to just ask.....

[George]

It's a figure common in the left coast broadleaf (soft) maple. Looks a lot like what out eastern curly looks like on the face grain.

[rcook5]

DAGS with images. It's hard to describe except to say it's gorgeous.

--RC "Sometimes history doesn't repeat itself. It just yells 'can't you remember anything I've told you?' and lets fly with a club. -- John W. Cambell Jr.