I have an almost new 1/4 hp furnace motor just gathering dust. Need some ideas for a good use for the motor. Would like uses that would apply to my woodworking shop.
Thanks in advance for any replies......Dan
I have an almost new 1/4 hp furnace motor just gathering dust. Need some ideas for a good use for the motor. Would like uses that would apply to my woodworking shop.
Thanks in advance for any replies......Dan
| I have an almost new 1/4 hp furnace motor just gathering dust. | Need some ideas for a good use for the motor. Would like uses that | would apply to my woodworking shop.
The perfect motor for this project. Visit
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
| Dan Jefferson (in 276fa$45232690$cf701e63$ snipped-for-privacy@PRIMUS.CA) said: | || I have an almost new 1/4 hp furnace motor just gathering dust. || Need some ideas for a good use for the motor. Would like uses that || would apply to my woodworking shop. | | The perfect motor for this project. Visit |
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
why am I getting link not found?
Line wrap, probably. On my screen the "l" in "html" has wrapped to the second line.
Chris
"Dan Jefferson" wrote in news:276fa$45232690$cf701e63$ snipped-for-privacy@PRIMUS.CA:
Dan,
About 15 years ago I made a non-oscillating 3x3 drum sander and a 8" disc sander from two motors I had around. Still have them and use them. You could also make a buffing wheel. One day I will re-do my disc sander and make an adjustable tilting table for it. Right now I am busy doing other things.
Another option, especially if it has a blower still attached, would be an ambient air cleaner. Not too difficult - build a box and get a good furnace filter (plus, optionally, a cheaper one for a "pre-filter"). Or a disc sander, something like
Though I think 1/4 hp is undersized if you're going to do general woodworking instead of modelling. The Performax 10-20 is 1 hp. The Grizzly 12" is 1-1/2 hp. I was personally looking at 1/2-3/4 to try to keep the weight down, but I don't have any numbers on what each size generally weighs so I'm guessing there.
I don't know what else you might do with it, but I believe Lee Valley sells a mounting bracket for them, so clearly you're not alone.
As a side note to Morris, I remembered I have some 3" diameter MDF half round that I had gotten for a project and then gone in another direction. Though I think it would be rather difficult to run a groove perfectly in the center of each half with a core box bit for the shaft, and then the jig I'd have to build to hold the half round to even attempt it. So back to the 15 discs I go, but for a second there it looked like it was going to be easy ;)
I was darn close to buying a kit from stockroomsupply.com, but then I read their FAQ and gave a big thumbs down to using hook&loop for this application, which also rules out the Grizzly.
And of course just as I start gettng serious about my narrow drum sander because I never do anything wide I have a repeat client come back asking if I can do a chest with a ~22" wide glueup required for the top. Of course.
-Leuf
I have one powering a low speed grinder via a belt and mandrel. It was the devil to mount. I wound up cutting a hole in a square of plywood and mounting it through the hole. Then used two shelf brackets to hold the board upright.
| As a side note to Morris, I remembered I have some 3" diameter MDF | half round that I had gotten for a project and then gone in another | direction. Though I think it would be rather difficult to run a | groove perfectly in the center of each half with a core box bit for | the shaft, and then the jig I'd have to build to hold the half round | to even attempt it. So back to the 15 discs I go, but for a second | there it looked like it was going to be easy ;)
All you'd need to hold the half-round would be a long V-block, deep enough that you could use wooden hold-downs (fastened with countersunk flat head screws) along the edges. Set your router fence carefully - then sand to perfectly round once mounted in the machine. If you're really careful with the router fence, you shouldn't lose more than
1/64 or so of drum...| And of course just as I start gettng serious about my narrow drum | sander because I never do anything wide I have a repeat client come | back asking if I can do a chest with a ~22" wide glueup required for | the top. Of course.
Of course. Time now to order a double-belted 48" sander? :-D
-- Morris Dovey DeSoto Solar DeSoto, Iowa USA
You know, I went so long without a router table now that I do have one I don't always insert it into my thought process. No jig needed at all. I'll have to make multiple passes anyway so I can dial in the fence during that process. The only core box bit I have is 3/4" which is a bigger shaft than needed, but cheaper to step up the shaft than buy a new bit. Still have to figure out what I'm doing with the wedge clamp, but having it in two halves should make cutting the groove a snap. I have some 1/4-20 threaded inserts I can use for attaching the wedge. I should probably do the same thing to both sides for balance.
Sure, shouldn't have to knock down more than 1/4 of the house to give the crane access to the basement. I'll have it all back together in a weekend or two with the help of the sander. The neighbors might be a little miffed about their lights dimming every time I turn it on, but they'll eventually come to appreciate it.
-Leuf
Gerald Ross wrote in news:1159958756 snipped-for-privacy@sp6iad.superfeed.net:
Lee Valley has a motor mounting kit that might work.
If the blower is still on it, an air scrubber is a dandy item to have. If you mount it on the ceiling, run a long duct on the exhaust side of the box all the way to the opposite end of the shop. Can provide great circulation, and if the condition of my filters are any indication, it does a great job!
Andy wrote:
Sit on it and spin!
(Sorry :-))
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