Used shellac for the first time - need advice

The best model paint stink / buzz to me was Floquil model railroad paint. It's a xylene / lacquer product that smells remarkably like Behlens / Mohawk pigment stains.

Barry

Reply to
B a r r y B u r k e J r .
Loading thread data ...

Dave, I made the post that originated this thread and I too cannot understand why you made a post about mineral spirits (aliphatic hydrocarbon paint thinner) in a thread about shellac. Mineral spirits are a nonsolvent for shellac. And what's with the hostile response to someone asking you to explain a nonsensicle post?

Reply to
Steve James

Guys, you may need to have your sarcasm meters calibrated. Ken is a longtime contributor to the wreck and a woodworker. He was just making light of the fact that someone who ostensibly woodworks for fun would be complaining about the "prep hassle" involved in mixing up a finish.

Not to speak for Ken, but it seems he's saying that it's part of the whole process. And if we don't enjoy the process, then maybe we should just buy our stuff at the store and consider another hobby.

Hey, I used to *hate* finishing. Ironically, that was when I was using the pre-mixed junk from a can. Now that I mix my own and can control the cut, freshness, and method of application, I find that I look forward to it.

Chuck Vance

Reply to
Conan The Librarian

I used Floquil's paints about 20 years ago and I can't recall the odor. I do remember being warned about the toxic nature of the solvent, of which I still have a small can. Xylene is what I was told yesterday is used in conversion varnish (Sherwin Williams). Do you know if that is true of most/all C-V?

dave

B a r r y B u r k e J r . wrote:

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

If you followed the thread more carefully, you would see it wasn't "nonsense". Silvan made a comment, followed by Andy about spirits. I then mentioned that you can get low odor mineral spirits. Do you think I don't know that alcohol is used in shellac? Christ almighty! You just enjoy trying to make me "wrong" when the issue is your ineptitude! and you can't spell too well, either! :)

stick to WW issues with me or talk to the hand.

dave

Steve James wrote:

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

He may have, but judging from your previous antics, what could one presume you might know or not know?

But clearly you did not know that when Andy referred to "methylated spirits," he was employing the Queen's English in describing what we call "denatured alcohol." When you, in your typical slap-dash, shoddy, fishy, atrocious, shameful, capricious, cavalier, obtuse, idiotic, ill-conceived, brain-dead, embarrassing, egregious, juvenile, provincial, sloppy, weak, flimsy, dubious, cockamamie, half-baked, puzzling, amateurish understanding of woodworking, assumed Andy was talking about mineral spirits (paint thinner), you blubbered about how, "for a little extra, HD sells a "low odor" mineral spirits. "

That was an ignorant non-sequiter at best. Your casual treatment of the most basic woodworking terms is just a little disturbing, dude.

I think you left off the suffix, "-job," from this lame rejoinder.

O'Deen

Reply to
Patrick Olguin

as much as THIS is off-topic I presumed one was allowed to discuss mineral spirits even in a "shellacking" thread, in keeping with a longstanding Wreck tradition of going OT.

You are one cranky sonofabitch, I'll give you that.

Bite me!

dave

Patrick Olgu>

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

MY antics? Ok, then how about morons who ask, "why do you sand shellac?". How did he slip under your omnipresent, discerning eye? eh?

Your initials sum up your 'tude: P.O.

dave

Patrick Olguin wrote: snip

snip

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

What he said.

I know that irony can be a bit hard to spot in ascii, but surely when someone says that they "just buy furniture" in a woodworking group they don't need to add a smiley. :-)

Ken Muldrew snipped-for-privacy@ucalgazry.ca (remove all letters after y in the alphabet)

Reply to
Ken Muldrew

Thanks, Paddy. Perhaps the best product Microsoft has is the newsgroup filter in OE, which prevents DavetheTroll from polluting my newsgroup window, but seeing his spew in the context of your expert ripostes *is* rather amusing.

Does anyone know if this Dave guy has actually made anything out of wood?

Reply to
Bob N

newsgroup filter in OE,

seeing his spew in the

He made a drawer once but forgot the bottom.

Reply to
A Dog Named Stain

just when I thought I was running out of plonking material, up pops useless Bob! somebody tell him I plonked him as well. thanks.

and of course I've never made anything from wood! I promise to save all the wood at the lumberyard for him.

oh, I almost forgot; he'll feel bad if I leave out "Bite me, Bob!".

there; that should about cover it...

dave

Bob N wrote:

spew in the

Reply to
Bay Area Dave

In the original thread the benefits of using dewaxed shellac verses waxed shellac was being discussed. You piped in that (dewaxed) "supposedly easier to sand...".

Although this was the first time I've ever seen a finish's ability to be sanded used as a criteria for selection and use, let's discuss a number of different processes:

  1. Sanding a finish to provide a tooth - This is done with reactive film finishes to allow better adhesion of subsequent applications. Shellac is an evaporative finish. With an evaporative finish a subsequent application will meld into the previous one. Shellac does not require sanding between coats.
  2. Using a sanding sealer - Sanding sealers, shellac included, are used to bind and support wood fibers to allow the sanding of certain woods to a smooth finish. Note that it is the wood that is being sanded not the support media.
  3. Rubbing out a finish - The use of various fine abrasives to achieve a desired effect in a final coat of finish. Note that this process is normally referred to as "rubbing out" not "sanding".
  4. Sanding a finish off - the act of removing a finish, usually accomplished by the use of sandpaper and a sander.

You've already provided enough information for me to determine which of these you do, but I still question why.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Reply to
Nova
  1. "Leveling," used to remove the careless drip or overlap.
Reply to
George
  1. "Dewhiskering," used to return a spit-coated piece of wood to smooth, after the fibers carelessly left compressed rise when saturated.
Reply to
George

It's generally better to use a razor blade as a scraper to remove drips. Because of the solvent properties of shellac, properly applied, lap make shouldn't occur.

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Reply to
Nova

-- Jack Novak Buffalo, NY - USA (Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)

Reply to
Nova

Do you cut down your own trees, too?...rip and dry your own wood? lol

You hafta draw the line somewhere. Everybody has their different line in the sand.

Have a nice week...

Trent

Fighting for peace is like screwing for virginity!

Reply to
Trent©

Given how much time he spends making off-topic posts is seems doubtful that his is employed or spends any time in a shop. He needs to turn off his computer and get into the shop more, or take the 12 step program offered by Usenet Posters Anonymous, or sign up for anger-management therapy. Maybe all of the above.

Reply to
Steve James

My bad. Your post was nonsensical (not nonsensicle). Please kill file me so you won't answer my posts and I won't waste my time responding. It has been fascinating to watch you transform in less than a year from a newbie poster with enthusiasm and real woodworking questions to an obnoxious obsessive poster who is capable of taking almost any post OT and offending multiple people. What was fascinating has become tiresome. Have a nice life - when you get one.

Reply to
Steve James

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.