just bought a Stanley 3x5x~.050`` scraper, and it ain`t ready, I don`t
think. Probly has the clear finish on th eedge even. Gonna search the web
then come back. I don`t have a stone, but I do have SiC papers and a flat
glass; even a roller, probly good for 3`but not 5`` width. How can I
sharpen this thingΙ I think it is the burr I need.
Its first job is to scrape off bondo on my door jambs. I am impatient.
ok another one says max 10 degrees. So after step 1 and 2 , draw file with
a kitchen sharpener up to say 10 degrees. I may not need to be to picky
about my burr for this task.ie eg newbee do I need the draw file 10 degree a
'round here somewheres I have a magazine article all about bringing scrapers
up. Mail me at "steve dot barry at bluebottle dot com" and it's yours by
return. Seem to remember its about a 10Mb pdf document though, so make sure
you can accept that sorta size attachment.
Make your own burnisher by grinding and polishing an old triangular
file to a smooth, rounded shape. Wet grind it so you don't draw the
temper. Polish it to a mirror finish. Mine has given good service for
over forty years. Put a file handle on the tang.
You can use a file to restore an edge that is no longer straight. You
probably do not need to do this yet. Mount the scraper in a vice and
protect it with wood on each side. If you do not have a burnishing tool use
a large round shank Philips head screw driver. With the scraper edge
pointing up and perpendicular to where you are standing hold the handle in
one hand and the tip of the screw driver in the other. Put a "touch" of
light oil on the edge of the scraper and begin pushing or pulling the screw
driver shank down the entire edge of the scraper with moderate to heavy
pressure and with the shank 90 degrees to the scraper edge. BE CAREFUL not
to nick your self with the sharp corners of the scraper. Do this 6 or 7
times or until you feel a burr on "both "sides of the scraper edge. Then
tilt the shank about 10-15 degrees and repeat 2 or 3 strokes. Then tilt the
opposite direction 10-15 degrees and repeat 2 or 3 strokes.
That should get you started with a bur edge on both sides of the edge.
Being in a hurry here won't help. Getting a card scraper ready for the first
time (actually the first few times) takes patience. But it's worth it. A well
tuned scraper will take off fine shavings, and quickly smooth a surface, fine
tune the fit of tenons or the board fitting in a tight dado, or remove layers of
The honing steps are what people usually try to leave out - that's not a good
idea. Also, turning the burr takes practice.
A kitchen knife steel won't work...
If your scraper produces dust, it isn't working right yet...
Good advice. It takes a bit to learn how to get a scraper ready, and how to
use, but it is well worth it. I have many planes and a drum sander but
sometimes the scraper is the only tool for the job.
I have a bunch of scrapers and before I start a job I put a hook on the long
edges of all of them. I hate to stop in the middle because I lost the edge.
I used brute force with a poorly, completely erroneously tuned scraper. I
layered the bondo thick last coat, and do not recommend this. My thinking
was that I'd rather remove from a solid base than have to add a little
later. But it was ugly with a dull scraper. I have to stop into a motor
shop and get a wrist pin or lifter. Took pages and pages of sites to not
know what to do. Why is that? But now until now I am back into r.w do I
know how to do it. Before getting the scraper I used a sander and it was
like killing a fly with a hammer. Had 2 coats of primer. Now I'm gonna oil
primer again, shellac ( to eliminate pinkness), then oil paint. I have put a
solid swath of red Bondo glazing putty over the pink Bondo with hardener on
each of the ~140 holes, enough so shrinkage is not gonna be a prob. Much
easier to sand. There was an issue of how much I scraped over the holes,
pinching the inner bondo circle with the scraper, , &/or how much power
sanding, creating a furry ridge around the circle.
Is there any problem with this sequence:?
"bondo" w/ hardener
glazing putty ("Bondo")
I am thinking, the reason for the shellac is to hold down the pinkness, but
the question, I am worrying is about compatibility.
You shouldn't need glazing putty. The way to use Bondo is to fill, let
it set up firm but not hard and slick off with a chisel. If you let it
get hard, the best tool is a Surform plane or blade...one of those
things with holes like a vegetable grater.
In either case, a light sanding after should give a primer ready
Pinkness? You mean from the coloring in the Bondo hardener? How is
shellac - a clear material - going to do squat for that? No reason to
do squat, the primer will cover it.
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