Welllllllllll,, I knew that the Powermatic web site in past years had indicated the 2 belts, serpentine IIRC, but right now they are indicating
3VX belts. Could the 3VX be what the belt is called? I thought it was 3, VX belts.Leon notes:
That may be it. I watched the assembly line down in Lavergne, TN a couple weeks ago, and every saw going through was set for two belts. That saw is more impressive than any other light produciton saw I've ever seen, when you check it with the top off (I think I saw about 10 that way). The trunnion assembly is truly massive, while the arbor is one piece and as prettily machined as anything you ever want to see. They're now powder coating the cabinets, inside and out. Lots of neat little details on how they do things, maintain quality with a small assembly line, and still turn out 5000 to 6000 of these saws a year (or more if needed, without losing quality).
Charlie Self "If you want to know what God thinks of money, just look at the people he gave it to." Dorothy Parker
So is sounds like the Powermatic quality has not been compromised as many thought would be the case when Jet got involved. I could not understand the logic with that assumption myself. I always thought that the 2 serpentine belts was superior to the 3 V-belts as the belts tend to not take on a shape and vibrate as much.
What blade are you using? Blades that come with table saws are typically not the best. I am not sure if that applies to the PM66 or not.
Thanks for the suggestions. The latest is I now get amazing glass smooth cuts in 8/4 cherry and maple if it keeps cutting like this I will abandon my practice of cleaning up cuts on the jointer. I think it was a combo of errors. It started with terrible burning and grabby feed on said boards so I started adjusting the rip fence toe. In the process I switched from regular kerf blade to thin kerf blade (Both WWIIs)thinking that one would be easier to achieve adjustment with. So from the other post the suggestion came up about the belt tension... seemed pretty loose and I tightened that up. Much better feel to the cut much more power from the motor but lots of saw marks, adjusting the toe wasn't helping a lot which I last set to about 0.008". So I get to thinking about that thin kerf blade sure enough lay it on the table and it has some unevenness. I put the 1/8" blade back on and absolutely beautiful rips ... nickel stays on edge even while cutting The weird thing about the gears is that there is no backlash in the movements from up to down. T I'm still bugged about the play and am going to track down a local PM rep. but I'm not one to argue with the results I now get. If the little bit of slop was a problem I don't see anyway I could get the results I now get. It was a good exercise to get under the saw and see how much iron this thing has
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