The mini thread on belts was good they did seem loose. Manuel didn't say how
to judge how tight to get them. Tightened them up and cut is better less
grabby a little more buttery feed, having trouble with blade marks.
Newest 'feature' in addition to the slop when lifting the arbor up is that
the whole assembly moves front to back a slightly between the trunion
saddles. Just doesn't seem like this saw should have so much play
Back to PM tech line
Thanks for the suggestions.
The latest is I now get amazing glass smooth cuts in 8/4 cherry and maple if
it keeps cutting like this I will abandon my practice of cleaning up cuts on
I think it was a combo of errors. It started with terrible burning and
grabby feed on said boards so I started adjusting the rip fence toe. In the
process I switched from regular kerf blade to thin kerf blade (Both
one would be easier to achieve adjustment with. So from the other post the
suggestion came up about the belt tension... seemed pretty loose and I
tightened that up. Much better feel to the cut much more power from the
motor but lots of saw marks, adjusting the toe wasn't helping a lot which I
last set to about 0.008". So I get to thinking about that thin kerf blade
sure enough lay it on the table and it has some unevenness. I put the 1/8"
blade back on and absolutely beautiful rips ... nickel stays on edge even
The weird thing about the gears is that there is no backlash in the
movements from up to down. T
I'm still bugged about the play and am going to track down a local PM rep.
but I'm not one to argue with the results I now get. If the little bit of
slop was a problem I don't see anyway I could get the results I now get. It
was a good exercise to get under the saw and see how much iron this thing
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.