When I verify/set my TS blade to perpendicular vs. the table, I put a
right angle square on the table and align it with the blade. However, I
always end up wondering whether I really lined it up with the plane of
the blade or if blade teeth got in the way and I ended up with the blade
a bit out of perpendicular.
It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed
instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does
anyone know of such an item?
> When I verify/set my TS blade to perpendicular vs. the table, I put a
> right angle square on the table and align it with the blade. However, I
> always end up wondering whether I really lined it up with the plane of
> the blade or if blade teeth got in the way and I ended up with the blade
> a bit out of perpendicular.
> It seems that someone would make a simple disk that could be installed
> instead of a real blade to be used for such calibration purposes. Does
> anyone know of such an item?
Oldest trick in the book.
Raise blade full amount, then place a piece of 6" vertical stock
oagainst miter gage and make a test cut about an inch from the end using
the left slot for the gage.
Transfer miter gage to right hand slot, turn piece around, and make a
cut thru the same slot you just cut.
If the cut edges of the slot are parallel, the blade is vertical.
If not, adjust blade as required and repeat test.
I have about as much need for a saw blade gage as a boar hog with a set
There are "reference plates", instead of blades, that are used by
manufacturers to set up saws with the miter slots at the factory, but doing
it in a shop for setting blade angle is a bit anal, and unnecessary, IMO.
Simply use a smaller square, or Lew's method, which is fool proof and has
the advantage of actually calibrating the tool _combination_ you'll be
IOW, it is a good idea to setup any tool with the blade/bit you're going to
be using, otherwise you could well be fooling yourself.
Go to Sears and purchase their 10" sanding disk. Remove the stick-on
sandpaper, clean off any residue with mineral spirits and use that to align
blades. I've cleaned mine up by mounting it and bringing it up to speed and
then with a fine grit paper stuck to a 2" wide x 2 ft long board, I polished
both sides then applied a coat of wax and buffed.
If you don't have sandpaper on the disc or have a rust inhibitor on it, the
blade will rust in humid conditions. Since I have a rotary sander already,
I don't use that disc for sanding - just for alignments. If you have a
contractor type table saw that has two tie-bars - that disc works great in
aligning those too. If you've never done that alignment - maybe you should
Ok, to check for the baled being perpendicular to the table SIMPLY make a
test cut through a piece of scrap. Flop one piece over end for end and
match the two cut edges back together. If you have a gap you are not
cutting square to the table. If you have no gap you are set at 90 degrees.
tex - No one directly answered your question. This is what you are
Lots of good advice on alignment w/o it though.
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Thanks, everybody. After looking at the price from Rockler, I think
I'll rethink my need for such an item and follow a path some of the
other responders have.
Manufacturers do use such plates, both disks and long plates along
with special squares to set and check 90 and 45 degree blade alignment
to the slot, arbor runnout, and perpendicularity to the table. I have
a set, however, I've never seen them available for sale. We made our
own and they had to be numbered and calibrated every so often
consistent with a gage calibration procedure in a quality manual for
However, a good square set on the blade body in between teeth on a
quality saw blade should certainly get you as close as you need to be.
If it is a quality blade any radial runout difference between the body
and the plane of the teeth will be miniscule.
I don't think they're all that useful for the average user, compared to
all of the previously mentioned methods, but:
I've also seen blank Forrest and other brand saw blades. FWW has shown
the Forrest blank in saw review articles.
I don't know who would make such a thing, but in the latest issue of
Fine Woodworking, when they're testing cabinet saws, they specifically
show that they are using one to test calibration. (June 2006, page 48,
No one mentioned the TS-Aligner Jr?
If you want to align the blade to the
If you want to align the fence to the
If you want to align the fence to the
If you want to check that the blade is
square (or any other angle) to the
If you want to check runout on
your saw arbor
If you want to check knives setting
If you want to check infeed and outfeed
tables on joiner to cutter head
If you want to check drill bit to
table for sqaure
If you want to check run out on your
drill press and or bit
This tool will do the job - accurately.
Better to know than to assume.
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