Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and
after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very
long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and
they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the
minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the
pores for subsequent coats.
I prefer a somewhat water resistant finish and shellac doesn't provide
that. I do use a mineral oil + beeswax finish on some salad bowls but
people like a more resistant finish, especially on the outside where
they like it a bit shiny as well.
A lot of people think that, but I've found it not to be particularly
accurate. I remember reading about a canoe builder that used shellac as
the finish on his canoes. It wasn't dewaxed shellac, so darkened the
wood a bit more but it was plenty waterproof.
As an experiment years ago I turned a bowl and finished it with shellac.
I ate hot soup out of it with no particular damage to the finish. I
can't remember if I used blonde (dewaxed) or amber shellac. For a salad
bowl shellac is a perfectly good finish. Certainly much more so than an
oil finish (excluding oil based varnishes obviously).
I've used it with good results, but not on a bowl so I have no idea how
it will work for waterproofing. Seems like it would take repeated
applications. I've used mineral oil on cutting boards and it also takes
a few applications before I trust it with water.
I use Lee Valley Polymerized Tung oil. I wipe it on with a folded
paper towel, wipe off excess and it dries to touch overnight. Then I
use 4-0 steel wool on it the next day and apply shellac/wax finish and
buff. Have been using this for years on bowls with a prominent figure
to bring out the figure. Never any problems.
If the wood has large pores a grain filler may be helpful.
May be "conventional wisdom" but that doesn't make it so. The problem
with many oil-based finishes is that the substance that makes the oil
cure contains toxic metals. That substance does not evaporate.
In any case, Lee Valley states specifically _not_ to use their
"Polymerized Tung Oil" on food-contact items and recommends their "Pure
Tung Oil" instead.
I have used their pure tung oil, which takes ages to cure. If you don't
cure it completely, I understand that you get the "trots" if you ingest
the uncured oil. I think that the Polymerised Tung Oil contains metallic
driers, something you don't want anywhere near your food.
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