Has anyone here had any experience with "Tried and True" finishes?
They are based on polymerised linseed oil but are non-toxic before and after curing. One uses very, very little and they appear to take a very long time to cure. I prefer non-toxic finishes on my turned bowls and they appear to be OK on side-grain but hopeless on end grain as the minimal amount of oil just disappears immediately and doesn't seal the pores for subsequent coats.
You do realize that shellac is non-toxic. They use it on pills so they go down your throat easier.
For food bowls, what about mineral oil or shellac?
I prefer a somewhat water resistant finish and shellac doesn't provide that. I do use a mineral oil + beeswax finish on some salad bowls but people like a more resistant finish, especially on the outside where they like it a bit shiny as well. Graham
A lot of people think that, but I've found it not to be particularly accurate. I remember reading about a canoe builder that used shellac as the finish on his canoes. It wasn't dewaxed shellac, so darkened the wood a bit more but it was plenty waterproof.
As an experiment years ago I turned a bowl and finished it with shellac. I ate hot soup out of it with no particular damage to the finish. I can't remember if I used blonde (dewaxed) or amber shellac. For a salad bowl shellac is a perfectly good finish. Certainly much more so than an oil finish (excluding oil based varnishes obviously).
...Kevin
I've used it with good results, but not on a bowl so I have no idea how it will work for waterproofing. Seems like it would take repeated applications. I've used mineral oil on cutting boards and it also takes a few applications before I trust it with water.
I use Lee Valley Polymerized Tung oil. I wipe it on with a folded paper towel, wipe off excess and it dries to touch overnight. Then I use 4-0 steel wool on it the next day and apply shellac/wax finish and buff. Have been using this for years on bowls with a prominent figure to bring out the figure. Never any problems.
If the wood has large pores a grain filler may be helpful.
I have always understood that Polymerized Tung Oil is not for food contact items .. < because it contains mineral spirits ? > John T.
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Conventional wisdom is that any modern finish is food save after it's fully cured, as the nasty stuff has evaporated. That can be up to 30 days or so.
May be "conventional wisdom" but that doesn't make it so. The problem with many oil-based finishes is that the substance that makes the oil cure contains toxic metals. That substance does not evaporate.
In any case, Lee Valley states specifically _not_ to use their "Polymerized Tung Oil" on food-contact items and recommends their "Pure Tung Oil" instead.
Walnut Oil is also a good food-safe product.
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Some foods have alcohol introduced, might melt shellac.
Thanks. that might be worth trying on the outside of the bowls. Graham
I don't think shellac would last long in a salad bowl. Graham
So far the outside of the bowls have had 6 or 7 applications and there is no end in sight. Graham
A friend, a professional woodworker and highly skilled turner, tried that and had to refinish the bowl as it went rancid. I know it's not supposed to happen, but it did. Graham
I have used their pure tung oil, which takes ages to cure. If you don't cure it completely, I understand that you get the "trots" if you ingest the uncured oil. I think that the Polymerised Tung Oil contains metallic driers, something you don't want anywhere near your food. Graham
Check antique catalogues see what they used for salad bowls. Garlic oil from a clove adds a nice flavor.
Generally nothing vegetable related as they go rancid. Garlic clove would fall under that category.
Yep - the "drying time" is ~ weeks - and it should properly have air & sunlight .. .. food-items sometimes go into a dark drawer or cupboard .. John T.
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