I've been using Titebond II pretty much exclusively for all my projects the
past few years. I posted a while back
that I had problems with the glue after finishing when it crept. I kind of
put it in the back of my mind thinking that maybe
temperature had been the culprit (I glued up pretty close to their lower
Well, today I wandered by one of my projects, a cherry bed built about 3
years ago and low and behold, I have glue creep.
Now this thing was built in the summer and I took my sweet time with it
(meaning I didn't glue up and start sanding within the
first 12 hours....more like days between the glue up and futher working of
it). What's going on here? Am I the only one with this
issue? Could the glue be "spoiled" (ie. age wise)? I'm pretty ticked off
as I noticed I have this problem on just about every
other project around the house as well. Is there another glue that folks
recommend (yellow or white preferably). Thanks
for the rant!
I'm using the term "Glue Creep" to describe what appears to be glue that
over time, has squeezed out between joints.
Not sure it's the correct terminology. Basically what I get, and this is
for edge glued stuff, is a slight ridge where the two boards
are joined that wasn't there when I built it. I can't take photos of it as
it's really too small to see but you can definitely feel
it as you rub your fingers over the joint. My method of edge glue ups goes
something like this. I joint my edges, set up the
clamps with cauls as needed, apply the glue, clamp the boards, and let sit
for anywhere from 12 hours to days. Afterwards,
I scrape the dried glue off and give the panel or whatever a good sanding
(or handplane sometimes) to the point where you cannot feel the joint with
fingers. I typically finish with a light coat of oil (linseed, watco,
tried and true, etc...) and then shellac. After all the finishing,
the joint is still as smooth as before. Months (or even years) later, I'm
getting this ridge where the joint is. I had this happen
once before on a box I made and the diagnosis from the group was I believe,
"Glue Creep". I took a scraper to it and very
gently removed it and sure enough it looked like dried glue.
Thanks for any help/advice!
Mmmm. Are you sure it isn't the wood creeping? By that I mean that if
two pieces from the exact same board were not glued together, a
slightly different cut (say for example, one more plainsawn and the
other more quartersawn) might produce an edge situation like you
On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 21:37:01 -0700, "James \"Cubby\" Culbertson"
I haven't experienced the problem you are citing but one possible
explanation is that the wood was not totally dry when you did the glue
up. Over time the wood will shrink but the glued edge will shrink
less due to the wood cells being soaked with glue. Basically the glue
saturated cells will feel like a ridge.
One way to check this is with a caliper if you are confident in the
'final' dimension of your boards. The 'ridge' would be virtually the
same as your 'final' dimension and the base wood would be thinner.
Some have described a problem when sanding prematurely after glue-up.
Gluing introduces moisture into the wood and sanding too soon after
clamp removal removes wet wood from the joint and after the moisture
departs the wood has "shrunk" leaving the glue line proud.
Are you sure it's glue creep and not wood movement. PVA glue does not expand or
contract with humidity changes. Wood does. Another thing that might cause the
problem is not allowing enough time for the wood to acclimatize to the
environment (where it will reside) before glue up.
Check the piece when the humidity is high and see if the glue line is still
proud of the wood.
Buffalo, NY - USA
(Remove "SPAM" from email address to reply)
One of the things I do (when I remember to do it) on edge gluing is to
scratch a little groove about a 32nd in from each edge of each board.
Then I keep the glue between the grooves. No squeezeout unless I use
way too much glue :-).
If what you're seeing is the result of wood movement, my method won't
help. Except if it's the wood shrinking and the glue not shrinking.
Can you take photos? It would be very useful to see the exact
characteristics of what you are talking about.
I can't say that I have ever had an issue with TBII, but I have not
used it much. I use standard Titebond whenever I can. In the back of
my mind I always think that it is best to use the most tried and true
when you don't need the characteristics for which a specialty glue is
intended. A very good example is the use of polyurethane glues. Hate
that stuff. I only use it if I have to glue dissimilar materials to
wood or some examples of waterproof applications. It is messy on the
project and on your hands (if you don't use gloves).
Now you are making me wonder if there is any concern about Titebond
Extend. I am considering using that as my mainline glue because it
would give me added working time. Should I stick to my rule?
BTW, I've been using Type III for the barn restoration for exterior
work...so far, it seems to hold up well and is immeasureably easier to
use than the polyurethanes--significantly cheaper as well, although
about twice the cost of Type I
I'd stay w/ Type I yellow glues for interior furniture work myself
unless there were a reason...
I've used the extended open glues for special purposes w/ no observable
problems, but those have been very unusual cases.
I think I am going to switch to TBIII for everything. Franklin sent me a
case of the it to evaluate and with 3 bottles left I am beginning to like
it. I was not real fond of it in the beginning as the open time seemed
shorter and the glue seems a bit thicker but I find with it being thicker
that it is less likely to run and it dries to a medium dark brown color as
opposed to yellow. The cured color tends to blend better with the color of
the wood than TBII. This is more important to me where normally I am not
concerned with a bit of squeeze out showing. But if the squeeze out is less
noticeable, all the better.
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