If you poured an area 6" deep and 8" tall, it would take about one 60 pound
bag per foot. That's maybe 8-12 bags depending on the length of your wall.
Mix one, pour it in, mix the other, pour, continue. Start at one end and
work towards the other. As long as you don't take too long between bags
you'll be fine (assuming standard concrete and not quick setting).
I use one of those "party" ice buckets and a mixer on a strong electric
drill to make quick work of mixing concrete and mortar.
In any case, blocks will work fine too. Just be sure to use "mortar" and
not concrete to set them in.
Leave the PT beam exposed and only bring your siding down to a point that
is 8" above grade. You could add flashing to the exterior of the beam if
you wish for added protection (and to keep water from working it's way
under the beam).
No worries though, sounds like you have a plan worked out.
Well, got the crud and whatnot ground off of the concrete. Dewalt 18v
4-1/2 inch grinder and cup wheel from Home Despot do a fine job but make
sure you've got lots of battery packs because it goes through them
faster than they charge.
So today I drilled the holes for the sill anchors and rebar (two sill
anchors for each section of wall--one's 4 feet the other's 2 feet) with
rebar in each void space of the blocks. Debated rending an SDS hammer
for 60 bucks from Home Depot or buying one for 90 from Harbor Fright and
went with Harbor Fright--I figured it would do for 9 holes I needed to
dril and I'd have it later if I needed to drill a few more for some
reason. Went with the 10-amp version, comes in a nice case, with a
little tub of grease and a spare set of brushes. I'd never used a real
SDS hammer before and I'm impressed--a while back I drilled three half-
inch holes in that slab with a half-inch hammer drill and it took me
over an hour to do it it. This time it was four 1/2 inch and five 5/8
inch and the HF drilled them about as fast as I can drill studs. Only
complaint I have is that the depth bar doesn't lock very tight and I
ended up going a little deeper on a couple of holes than I intended.
Found out my blow nozzle had walked off so off to Home Despot for a blow
nozzle (HD is enough closer than HF for the gas to make up the
difference)--got the 7 piece kit 18249HOM which has a long tip perfect
for blowing out the holes--got a half-inch pipe brush from the plumbing
department to clean them out--word of advice, if you have both 1/2 and
5/8 holes, do all the 5/8 first--brand new the brush is a tight fit, but
once it's been in a couple of half inch holes it loosens up a lot in the
Anyway, got the holes cleaned out, shot the Sika (more advice--keep
pumping it through the nozzle until it turns light gray before you use
it--they say "until it stops streaking" or some such but the dark gray
doesn't show any streaks for a long time and set the rebar and sill
anchors. The first piece of rebar went in with the dark gray, but by
the time I figured out what I'd done it was set anyway, at least enough
that that rebar wasn't coming out without more effort than I wanted to
put into it.
I'd never used a caulking-gun epoxy before. Having read that it took a
lot of effort with the caulking gun and being somewhat arthritic but too
cheap to spend for a powered gun, I did a bit of research and found that
they make guns with up to 26:1 thrust ratio, so I ordered one of those
(Newborn 375-XSP) off of Amazon <(Amazon.com product link shortened)
Revolving-Caulking-Cartridge/dp/B00CLVAA24/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid1435950692&sr=8-1&keywords75-xsp> and it worked a treat for the
purpose. Sika squeezed out easy as you please with no effort at all.
Gonna be interesting to see how that gun works for other stuff. I
suspect it's going to prove to have been 35 bucks well spent.
Several years ago I had to drill some holes through a concrete basement
wall to replace a broken water line. All I had at the time was a standard
rotary drill. It took a couple hours and I burned up several masonry bits
in the process. I got the job done but I really didn't know what I was
I later bought a Dewalt hammer drill and discovered it worked much better
for drilling holes in concrete, but it was still very slow. OK if you
just need a few small holes, but inadequate for big jobs.
A couple years ago I needed to split several granite boulders so I
invested in a SDS rotary hammmer. Wow, what a difference. Makes easy work
of drilling large holes in concrete or stone. I wish I had bought one
Wouldn't a shop vac work for cleaning out the holes?
It's gotta be better than my first attempt... blowing into the hole and
having all the dust come back in my face. Learning experience, something
you only do once. :)
Me either. The few times I've needed masonry epoxy I just bought the
little squeeze tubes from the home centers. Nothing fancy, but it did the
job for a few holes.
I know they have air power caulking guns and cordless electric models,
but I haven't used either type.
I've always bought the best manual guns available at the home centers.
Haven't run into anything yet I couldn't squeeze out with them.
When we built our house I bought one of those large sized guns that we
used to lay down all the construction adhesive for the subfloor panels.
For big jobs that's a lot nicer than squeezing out a bunch of small
Kind of late now, but for your small job I would think concrete masonry
anchors (the kind that expand in the hole to lock in place) would work
just as well as rebar. Could have saved the cost of the epoxy and fancy
caulking gun, but at least you have a new tool now! :)
Glad you're making progress with your shed.
Yeah, I learned "don't lean over the hole".
The Sika instructions say "blow, brush, blow, brush, blow". Figured if
I was going to use the stuff I may as well do it right. I added an
additional "brush, blow" to that and was still getting crud out.
Besides, once you get used to having a compressor with a blow nozzle you
miss it--I was going to have to replace the nozzle anyway.
I thought about those. I've used them before. Trouble is the local
suppliers (well, Fastenal did but I'd have had to take time off from
work to get to Fastenal) didn't have any threaded ones long enough to go
through the block and the sill with enough left to put a nut on. Once
the decision was made to set threaded rod for sill anchors, adding a
piece of rebar in each void space that didn't have an anchor didn't
really add much effort, and I've got way more epoxy than I need for the
When drilling into rocks, I learned to wear safety glasses. When the drill
starts hammering into the first half inch or so chips of rock and dust fly
everywhere. Once the bit gets down in the hole a bit it's not so bad.
I have one but rarely use it. To me they're just like a leaf blower. They
blow stuff out of the way but it just ends up somewhere else. I prefer
suction to vacuum up dust and debris. Keeps the dust out of my eyes and
nose and keeps my workspace cleaner.
You could have added couplers and threaded rod to get any length you want.
But, you got the job done and have new tools. Now you'll just need more
projects in the future so you can use them again. :)
One way or another the blocks are down and filled. I started in on the
carpentry today, got one sill plate down, was fixing to do the other one
when I realized that the #$%^&*ing MORON who built the thing had ended
the wall on a void space in the crosswall. Two inches longer and it
would have been on a stud, but NOOOOOOOO. And the slab is of course
poured the same two inches short and the roof ends the same two inches
short, so building it out would be a major operation.
Long term I need to open the wall up and add a stud in the right place.
Short term I can think of several ways to rig it.
Assuming you have some kind of plywood or OSB sheathing in the cross wall,
I really don't think you have a problem. Driving several deck screws long
enough to penetrate the sheathing should be way more strength than you'll
However, if it bothers you, you could drill holes and install several
toggle bolts. Short of a hurricane or tornado, the new wall won't be going
Glad you're making progress.
On Saturday, July 4, 2015 at 1:52:46 AM UTC-4, HerHusband wrote:
Many years ago a wise man told me "If you are working too hard, you are probably using the wrong tool."
He then lend me his electric jack hammer. The drain I had to expose in my basement slab came quickly into view.
Yep. We got the call at 8pm from my mother-in-law that a pipe had burst
underground outside her house and was flooding her basement (she lives
about an hour away). We had the city turn off the water and dug it up in
the dark. I had to replace the old pipe that was running through the
basement wall. I'm not sure why but the concrete was over a foot thick at
that point. The only tool I had available at the time was a cheap rotary
drill and some chisels and masonry bits I picked up on the way to the in-
I knew I was doing something wrong, but had never done anything like that
before so I didn't have a clue.
That job would sure have been a lot easier with my rotary hammer. :)
I feel it - used a star drill to cut a 2.5' x 2.5' hole through
a 6" thick concrete slab that was cured. Worse it was under a
shop table - limited work area. Bomb shelter - what else...
It was in the 50's.
On 7/4/2015 12:09 PM, email@example.com wrote:
The local hardware store showed me one of those when I stopped to get more
masonry bits. I'm like "yeah right, you've got to be kidding"... :)
In hindsight, it probably wouldn't have been any worse than a spinning
masonry bit. Without the hammer action it's practically worthless.
Bolt some good pressure treated 4x6 to the existing bolts and go for it.
"J. Clarke" wrote in message
Behind my garage there is an attached shed. I opened the (plywood)
doors a while back and they came off in my hand. Last weekend I planned
on fixing them but . . . Turns out the reason they came off was that
trim into which the hinges were screwed was rotten. So pulled it off
and the T1-11 under it was rotten. So pulled that off and the studs
were rotten. So demoed the whole wall preparatory to rebuilding it and
the sill plates were not just rotten but an ant farm.
Well, decided to fix it _right_ so I'm not fixing it again in my 90s.
Also gave me an opportunity to give it a wider door to fit a modern
riding mower. So today's activity was going to be to put down some
cinder blocks to raise the sill 8 inches above the ground. Well, turns
out that every single beeping one of the sill anchors is on a web of the
cinder blocks. Every . . . single . . . blasted . . . one.
Now I'm torn between just putting a few bricks on the ends to shift the
webs over or cutting off the anchors and planting new ones. Economic
sense says bricks. Lust for an SDS drill says new anchors. Decisions,
decisions . . .
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