All good advice, and I'll add one more to your "wear eye protection": there are other things on your face besides your eyes that need protection, e.g. your nose and your teeth. That's one reason I *always* wear a full face shield when using any of my big power tools. Other reasons are:
- it's more comfortable than goggles
- it's easier to put on
- it doesn't fog up, ever
- it fits easily over my prescription eyeglasses, much better than goggles.
Ripping with a bandsaw is actually a lot easier than with a table saw, and much safer too. You just have to clean up the edge afterward, either with a jointer or a hand plane.
Only one thing to add. Put your "other" hand behind your back. This will help stop the impulse to try to grab if something goes wrong.
Hey Locutus ...
You shop at the Borg?
Lee
I'm a software person too and still have all ten fingers. It's important to read about table saw safety and there are several rules to follow. Off the top of my head are these:
Wear safety glasses. Work with a clear mind. Use featherboards properly. Have several types of push sticks and blocks nearby. Use a splitter and guard. Tune up the saw. Use a DC, this protects your health and improves safety. Have plenty of lighting. Before you turn on the saw, stop a moment, and think if there is a way to make the cut more safely (I use this method ALL the time).
A table saw is actually very safe when used properly. It is probably my most important power tool in the shop.
As has been said here, the two most important words I can give you are:
Board Buddies -
Jeff
I have an anti kickback device my Dad gave me several years ago it's from Leichtung (spelling) workshops. I dont remember the actual name of the device but its similar to the "board buddies" I have been using these devices for about 10 years and have never (knock on wood) had a kickback either. The device has a wheel which can be set up to rotate freely (no kickback but fence pressure) or to rotate in 1 direction only so you get kickback protection in addition to fence pressure.. they run about $50 for a pair. You will usually need to mount them on on an auxillary fence on top of your saw fence, owever, its not that big of a project. I have mine on a Craftsman saw and my Dad had his on a Powermatic with a Beismeyer fence and the setup was not too bad with either. Being a Physical Therapist I also am very dependant on my hands so a kick back could make for a "bad day"
Hopefully this helped you with your decision making.
Mike Kempke
Grab one of the taunton books from your local library and read up a bit.
kickback can occur when a piece is wedged between the blade and the fence. or it can occur as the density of the wood changes which i think happens when wood is not fully aclimated to its new environment. I think its more likely in solid wood than plywood.
But hey im new too.
"Locutus" wrote
The fairly comprehensive notes on my web site - Circular Sawbench Safety (including Buying a Circular Sawbench) might be of some use.
Jeff G
If you want to avoid kickback, watch David Marks work on DIY with his home made cutting sleds. The work is held or clamped firmly on the sled and the whole assembly slides nicely through the blade. . . . and NUMERO UNO! Always have safety glasses on. Ripping should be done with guide rollers or home made featherboards clamped in place to control the board. Always use a push stick and auxiliary roller stand for long boards. Bugs
I've had one real kickback, luckily without injury. If you search the archives of this newsgroup (Google groups "advanced search") you'll find quite a bit on this subject. If I were you, would immerse myself in the literature on tablesaw safety, become an expert at it, and put the rules into practice. That's the only thing preventing what could be a life-changing event.
Absolutely, resistance is futile.
Actually, as stated below, ripping is a fairly easy opertaion for a bandsaw. Really, it depends on what you want to do. I just thru it out there as I wish I had thought about a bandsaw when I first bought my tablesaw. If you are doing mostly cabinets, shelves and remodeling, then a tablesaw would be better. If, on the other hand, you are more interested in building furniture, then (IMHO) a bandsaw would be better. They're quieter, less intimidating (the dado blade on my tablesaw sounded like it could rip your arm off, chew it up, spit it out and not blink), can resaw, cut curves, etc. But, also, as stated below, no good for dados. Then you either get out a hand plane or a router.
HTH
jim
I've got the same ones. They can be set to run on either side of the fence and the "against the fence" force can be adjusted as well by changing the wheel angle.
I've had mine for many years. As you say, I've never had a kickback (or a pushback) when using them.
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