I use a "special" was made from Johnson's. Harder'n a
rock and almost bulletproof. When you finally find
Johnson's wax, do this:
(all measuring by volume)
1/3 Johnsons wax
1/3 Carnuba flakes
1/3 Pure beeswax
Melt slowly in an old aluminum coffeepot (thriftstore $1.00)
on a hotplate OUTSIDE!! When melted together, remove from
heat and blend in enough pure turpentine to make a paste again.
(I often do the melting/hardening thing several times til I
get the consistency I want.) What you're looking for is a barely
workable paste--(hard) This stuff goes on stiff and needs to
be buffed out almost immediately. You can give yourself more
time by adding more turp. Once you get this stuff rubbed in
everywhere--miter slot, extension wings, fence rails. table
top and fence surfaces, you'll have a very slippery, HARD surface
that will not give you finishing problems when you drag your
wood across it. My CI Delta Contractor's saw sits outside
year round for the past 3yrs--right now covered by 18" of snow
(tarped) and the metal surfaces show no ill effects. Spring and
Fall I strip with lacquer thinner and re-apply the wax, heating
surfaces somewhat with a heat gun for initial light coat, then
final protective coat. Holds up well between the 100plus to
minus20 degree temp swings we have here in Montana.
The auxiliary rip fence is also in the current Popular Woodworking
(Feb '04). It fits on top of a Bessy clone, and is bolted to the flat
top of he fence. There is a picture of the jig with the rip fence
The main jig is the shorter L shaped piece on top of the fence. The
sled is the tall piece in front; it hooks over and slides along the
auxiliary fence. The book shows many other attachments and uses for
the basic fence.
The universal fence is cradled between the two sides of the bies fence. I
wanted a better way to secure it so I put a barbed threaded insert into a
cleat and then sheet metal screwed the cleats, one in the front and one in
the back, to the bies. I measured off the center point for everything so
that now the fence will mount facing either to the left or right side of the
fence using the same mounting holes. Might be handy for raised panels...
I am putting another piece of wood down the center of the top of the bies
fence, in between the cleats. It has a t track in it so that I can mount and
move my board buddies around. The channel arrangement also gets sheet metal
screwed to the top of the bies. This provides additional support for the
center of the universal fence and makes it easier to shim it square to the
TS table. I'm not one for drilling holes in fences unneccesarily, but I
*really* like where Tolpin is going with his jigs - I've solved problems in
my head with his jigs that I haven't built yet... Did that make sense? You
get the idea...
Several of the auxillary fences that are used with the universal fence work
with a slip fit using UHMW plastic. I may or may not have any left, or I'll
use laminate strips.
Toplin is a big fan of T track, destaco clamps and assorted knobs, hold
downs and the like. I've found the best price for T track at Grizzly - 8
bucks for 36" vs. 13 at woodcraft. For hardware knobs and the like, Grizzly
has better prices too. Harbor freight had a good price on De staco clamps,
but I have also got 'em on ebay at decent price. If you have any surplus
stores in your area, I'd check there....
My only crit of Tolpin's book is that it would have been more convenient to
have an appendix of all his jigs. As is, they pop up in the book according
to the task being taught and so there is some flipping about. The index is
a bit lacking as well. This may be more a point for his editors...
I also have "The Table Saw Book" by Kelly Mehler, and would recommend it,
but I'd still put Tolpin's TSM at the top of the list.
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