:-o How can we create sad dust? :-)
I also think relative humidity has an effect, both of the wood and
surrounding air. Here in Phoenix it's usually so dry that static
electricity is a huge problem causing static cling. I've moved "dust"
around (Swingman's method) inside the cabinet saw only to have it re-stick
somewhere else. Type of wood is also a factor. Face milling poplar (Sears
pos profile cutters) caused a huge build-up inside while doing the same task
with maple did not.
OK, here's what seems to be working the best so far. I've pretty much
made a small downdraft in the bottom of my cabinet saw by putting a
piece of plywood with holes and a "funnel" in the cabinet base. It goes
something like this, from the bottom up:
The factory floor of the saw slopes toward the DC port. The edges
of the facory floor were sealed up with duct tape. I then took a piece
of plywood about the same size square as the facory floor and mounted
it just above the DC port and sealed it up with duct tape (Again, think
downdraft table). Two blocks were added on one side between the two
floors to keep the plywood level instead of angled like the factory
I then drilled a series of 5 3/4" evenly spaced holes right down
the center of the plywood directly inline with the DC port. I tried
just using pegboard, a series of 1" holes in plywood and a series of
1/2" holes in plywood. It seemed anything less than 3/4" would just
clog, and too many 1" holes would lessen the suction to the point where
it just didn't work either. I may refine the number and size of holes
a little, but I think 3/4" is a good start between keeping good suction
and not to small as to clog.
I then cut two pieces of plywood and put them in the cabinet to
form a "V". They basically create a slope (or funnel) on either side
of the cabinet to direct the dust toward the 5 holes I drilled in the
I just finished ripping a bunch of wood into about 400 lf of 1/4"
pieces to check how this would perform in real world use. The cabinet
only has about a quart or so of dust in the bottom around the holes and
has seemed to stabilized there. However, some dust did gather on the
outsides of the funnel where there is no holes for dust collection. I
need to refine this a litle yet to keep dust out of those areas (more
In any case, I'm gonna look over Bill Pentz site this eve (between
beers) and see if there is any ideas to refine this thing further. I 'd
guess the best DC would be a shroud that would fit around the blade,
but it just doesn't seem possible with my saw. As it is though, I've
managed to make great progress in a few hours with just 3 pieces of
plywood and some duct tape. Will report back with future refinements
and some pics soon. Happy New Year! --dave
Dave Jackson wrote:
I have looked over Pentz's site several times, have a cartridge filter
on a HF dust collector w" 6" tubing, a hepa room filter and a hepa
shopvac filter for my 6" RO. I was still nervous until I found this
study of a refinishing shop
It shows a shop with no dust collection using a 6" RO sander generating
just barely above even the new air quality standards (1.4 mg/m3) for
fine particulates. I could see an argument that they would build up
over time, but this should have been included in the measurements since
these guys weren't collecting their dust at all.
This does not address the issues with the larger particles (above 2.5u)
but those are not as serious as the ones associated with the smallest
particles (and the most expensive dust collection solutions) and the
most paranoia. It also doesn't address cleanliness and other issues
with wood dust and chips.
Just another data point for those working their way down to a clean
room like I am.
: I have looked over Pentz's site several times, have a cartridge filter
: on a HF dust collector w" 6" tubing, a hepa room filter and a hepa
: shopvac filter for my 6" RO. I was still nervous until I found this
: study of a refinishing shop
What is the title or author of the paper? This link gets me to
T&F's main page only.
-- Andy Barss
My old Jet had the same problem until I taped over the vent
louvers and added sheet metal that sloped down to the dust port.
I had so much dust collect in it before the mods that it caught
fire when I was cutting a 45 degree bevel. The blade and belts
squeezed the excess dust against the side and it resulted in a
friction fire. Guess where the fire extinguisher was? Not anywhere
near the shop.
I have the same situation with my dust collector; every once in a
while I will (with the saw OFF) stick an jet nozzle from my air
compressor down into the throat area while the dust collector is on
and point it around at different areas. In a couple of minutes the saw
cabinet is cleaned out.
Stop looking down in that cabinet !!!
Build yourself a ramp of some sort that
helps the dust get to the pipe and forget the
stuff in the corners.
I do mine with a shop vac "about" every quarter
and that seems to be enough.
I let this same problem annoy me for a couple of
years and decided it was not worth the effort.
Dave Jackson wrote:
You know how sometimes you want to make some filler and you have some
glue and you need some sawdust of the same wood so you can mix up a
little batch right on the spot?
The corners inside the cabinet are a good place to look. The top layer
is usually the sawdust I'm looking for.
When that high torque motor starts up with a bang think about all the
sound and vibration dampening you get with that dust in there.
The latest Delta Unisaw design works the best, chute and port in line
with the blade and gull wings on each side to discourage settling.
When shop expansion completed and I can finally have dust collection,
I think I'll be satisfied for a long time just not having to crawl
under that saw (and everything else) every week or so to clean out the
15" planer rolls to the back of the shop and discharges out the barn
doors, pitch fork works well to bag it up.
Dedicated shop vac for the drum sander. Still roll it to the back of
I have a related question. My Unisaw does an OK job with the dust not
settling much in the cabinet but with a zero clearance insert I get a
lot of sawdust on top of the saw. I am thinking of getting the shark
guard and wondered if you put the dust collection hose only on the
guard or y them and have a hose on both. Also, has anyone had
experience with his newer 4" port model and is it worth the clumsiness
of dealing with a 4" instead of the smaller hose hanging from the
Dave Jackson wrote:
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