Have you tried spraying the board with a mist of water before running it
through the planer? I am sure that you have already thought of this, but
make sure your knives are really sharp and you are taking the lightest cut
Sharpened the knives just before trying it, tried the water misting.
I can get a reasonably decent surface if it's > 1/2", but when it gets
thinner than that, I start getting huge 3/32" or deeper tearout spots
On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 16:02:51 -0800, RWM wrote:
: Planer seems to tearout more and more the thinner it gets, handplanes
: tearout a bit, and the drum sander's temporarily out of commission. Any
handtool way: use a scraper.
power tool way: build a sled on which you mount a router. Put in a flat
bottomed bit. Build runners to either side of the maple piece,
equal height, and run the router back and forth, up and down.
-- Andy Barss
Just yesterday I was working on some quilted maple and getting some
tearout even with my best planes. The solution: Lee Valley scraper
plane (their variation on the old Stanley #112). Cleaned it up in
Alternatively, if you have a #80 scraper, you can make it go almost
as fast, but you have to be a bit more careful to keep the board flat.
Before I had a drum sander I would re-saw my figured wood with a carbide
blade and then plane the back side. The planed side would tear out but the
re-sawn side only took minimal sanding, worked great.
The carbide blades leave a nice smooth finish, probably because the tips are
square on the sides instead of tweaked out like the bi-metal sort.
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