Storage Shed

Anthony,

You bring up some really good points, so let me see if I can address some of them.

When I say "slightly larger," I don't think it's probably as bad as you imagine. The concrete pad is only three inches wider than the building footprint.

I did this specifically to allow for 1-1/2" of sheathing, siding, and trim so the finished building will be exactly 10' x 10', and thus no nosy neighbors can go whining to the HOA.

Now, given that the LP siding will be 3/8", I may have actually a 1/8" extension of pad beyond the finished edge of the wall.

The sill plates will be made of PT lumber, and I intend to either roll styro insulation between the pad and the bottom of the plates and/or seal the outside seam between the plate and the pad. I also intend to apply some of that black fabric material along and extending slighly below the bottom edge of the framed wall before the sheathing is applied.

What I think I will do is to actually run a "ring" of cedar trim around the base of the building all the way around, covering that troublesome latter 6", then seal the joints around all the trim. The siding is all pre-primed, so I'll prime the trim and give the entire building at least one coat of a good exterior latex.

As I think through it, I believe that will probably do as much as can realistically be accomplished short of having an excavated footing that rises from the grade, and that would have been a project more expensive than the building itself...

Hope that makes some degree of sense...

Ongoing thanks to everyone for their continued help and suggestions.

-> Intrepid,

Reply to
intrepid_dw
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ANY exposed slab is going to be enough to let water in. Just pretend your a raindrop, and follow the path... :)

At the very least, I would install some Z-flashing at the slab. It's the stuff made for vertical joints in plywood siding. Slip one edge up under the last row of siding, and the other edge can overlap the slap. Any water that runs down the wall would have no where to go but out and down to the ground.

The rolled "sill sealer" works great for that. It compensates for any variations in the slab and sill plates, and keeps out bugs and whatnot.

If possible, bevel the top edge and let the siding overlap the trim board. If you can rabbet the top edge to slip behind the siding, even better. Remember, pretend you're a raindrop... :)

I've had good success with the PL line of polyurethane caulks. You can get them at Lowes, and probably Home Depot as well.

Caulking is a good "second defense", but it's still better to build the building so it sheds water naturally.

In any case, have fun building your shed!

Anthony

Reply to
HerHusband

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