Staining knotty pine

What's the secret to keeping the stain even?

Thanks,

Mike

Reply to
Michael
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In my experience, I find it helps to at least sand to around 600 before staining. Then do your finer sanding afterwards. Restaining or touch up staining followed by very fine sanding to finalize may be in order. But also keep in mind the characteristics of different stains. Myself, I like to use Minwax, Provincial Stain without poly. I never use the poly included stains unless I am doing small scroll projects that does not matter about details. I find that minwax has the best covering stains and always use a lint free cloth.

Reply to
BILLY GURLEY

You might be thrilled with the results of General Finishes, Bartleys, and or Zar stains if you are impressed with Minwax stains.

Reply to
Leon

Use cherry instead of pine ? 8-)

Pine varies in its absorbency, so any "stain" (meaning a pigment that soaks _into_ the timber) is going to end up blotchy.

Instead you can pre-condition the pine with a coat of thinned shellac, then apply a glaze instead of a stain (a pigment that sits on the surface of the timber).

Reply to
Andy Dingley

I'll second the shellac recommendation - it is good for sealing knots in particular. If you don't use some kind of sanding sealer or sealer coat before your stain, it will almost definitely end up splotchy on pine. Test on scrap as always. Andy

Reply to
Andy

Gel stain is probably the best bet... If you don't want to start with shellac etc.

JES

Reply to
JES

Well, you can't. But you can minimize the blotches...

use light stains, such as honey pine use gel stains use a wood conditioner or spit coat shellac use less stain on the end-grain areas sand properly avoid excessive use of glue practice on scrap pieces

Reply to
Phisherman

I use Spruce/ Pine almost exclusively. I use a Minwax natural (clear) as a base, then a Minwax stain , then the finish. The clear evens out the wood for staining, knots and all including areas of the wood that may be spalted. Put the clear on, wait a day before staining.

The clear will show up any obvious areas that need more sanding almost as well as a stained coat will.

Pete

Reply to
cselby

I do pretty much all my projects in pine. I recently gave this product a try

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almost like a waterbased gel stain. A bit pricey, but it covers very well and doesn't blotch at all.

Reply to
2fatty

I'm doing my pine panel doors with Minwax Puritan Pine. Two gallons of elbow grease for every gallon of stain. Two coats, a good rub after the second coat seems to take care of most of the blotching. Whats left is character.

Reply to
L d'Bonnie

Thanks, everyone, for your help with this.

Mike

staining. Then do your finer sanding afterwards.

be in order. But also keep in mind the

Stain without poly. I never use the poly included

details. I find that minwax has the best covering stains

Reply to
Michael

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