My interest in using SPF leans towards using pastel colors.
These seem to be mostly water base.
I would like to use some nice greens and yellows, even reds that will show a bit
Is this doable without raising the grain so much that you can't get a smooth
Moldings are my main interest.
I know very little about SPF and this is why I would like to see questions
about SPF. That being said, I do often wipe down pine with wet sponge or
cloth to raise grain and then sand it. So, when I apply a water based
stain there is no more grain to raise. Test and see, but this works for
My family does all kinds of woodworking. I asked my Uncle Carl about the
pine floors in his 1850 house:
Hi, Josie, we installed a knotty pine floor in our kitchen about 30 or more
years ago and never finished it with anything. It is rustic. We wash it
occasionally, only. It wears in the soft spots and the knots are raised
up, being more dense. It is like the floor we saw when we removed the old
linoleum, which was worn down in spots right through the board. We like it
but you probably wouldn't, it is really rustic. We also have other pine
floors which are southern yellow (hard) pine, and they are painted and wear
Pine floors are installed and stained, but need a hard varnish and regular
care. They are also stained and oiled regularly. If you let them go they
are harder to bring back to a uniform finish without resanding. That's all
My cousins just refinished their yellow pine floors in their just purchased
1920 house. I could still stick a fingernail into the wood and make a dent
but think the pine is tougher than the pine I buy at Lowe's. They finished
the floors with oil poly and the floors look beautiful.
I do know that painted pine floors are not uncommon in the old New England
houses. Go for poly and then paint if you are unhappy?
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