My interest in using SPF leans towards using pastel colors. These seem to be mostly water base. I would like to use some nice greens and yellows, even reds that will show a bit of grain. Is this doable without raising the grain so much that you can't get a smooth finish? Moldings are my main interest.
I know very little about SPF and this is why I would like to see questions about SPF. That being said, I do often wipe down pine with wet sponge or cloth to raise grain and then sand it. So, when I apply a water based stain there is no more grain to raise. Test and see, but this works for me.
Josie
firstjois wrote: [snip]
My family does all kinds of woodworking. I asked my Uncle Carl about the pine floors in his 1850 house:
Hi, Josie, we installed a knotty pine floor in our kitchen about 30 or more years ago and never finished it with anything. It is rustic. We wash it occasionally, only. It wears in the soft spots and the knots are raised up, being more dense. It is like the floor we saw when we removed the old linoleum, which was worn down in spots right through the board. We like it but you probably wouldn't, it is really rustic. We also have other pine floors which are southern yellow (hard) pine, and they are painted and wear well.
Pine floors are installed and stained, but need a hard varnish and regular care. They are also stained and oiled regularly. If you let them go they are harder to bring back to a uniform finish without resanding. That's all I know.
--Uncle Carl
My cousins just refinished their yellow pine floors in their just purchased
1920 house. I could still stick a fingernail into the wood and make a dent but think the pine is tougher than the pine I buy at Lowe's. They finished the floors with oil poly and the floors look beautiful.I do know that painted pine floors are not uncommon in the old New England houses. Go for poly and then paint if you are unhappy?
Josie
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