Don't know about anyone else, but what works for me is to lightly, and I
mean _lightly_, sand after the first coat of shellac with 320g, wipe off
with a cloth, then apply as many light coats as necessary with nothing done
between these intervening coats.
After the last coat I wait a week and go back over the piece lightly with
If I want to make it a little less shiny, I will rub it out with 0000 steel
wool and paste wax made into a slurry with mineral spirits, then polish it
Depends. If you use low-weight cuts and good care, you may be able to get
by. Question is, why bother? It's so easy to give a scuff with ~320-400 to
catch the last of sanding whiskers and any ridiculousness, versus being
surprised by them after the second or subsequent coat, that I do it as a
matter of course.
After the second, if things look reasonable, and it will take two coats at
least before you're coating versus soaking, you can use a pad and shine your
coats right up.
Which means you _don't_ level the final.
You don't need to roughen the surface to provide a grip for the next
coat. So if the coat you just applied is basically smooth and even,
no need to sand.
But if the coat you just applied has brush marks or drips or lumps,
it's easier to sand them down to level then to try and rub them down
when you apply the next coat. The next coat will dissolve the surface
enough to blend, but it won't melt through a mark big enough to see
Published e-mail address is strictly for spam collection.
If e-mailing me, please use jc631 at optonline dot net
Nova said it best. It depends on how badly I screwed up the last coat. :)
I would disagree with the statement that "errors come through to some
extent" or whatever whoever said. IME they come right through in amazing
3D relief every time. The slightest goof translates to a thicker goof,
then a thicker goof, then a really thick goof.
My last project came out great. I applied a 1# cut very carefully, let it
harden up, then sanded out the inevitable little blurbles very ruthlessly
with 320 grit. I repeated this about 10 more times, spot sanding around
edges and corners as needed to clean up minor goofs. I left the last coat
as it lay, and topped up with paste wax.
I still missed two or three spots that are a few microns higher than
surrounding areas, but overall the finish looks *great* on that piece. No
drips or runs that catch the eye and hold one's attention. Not unless the
light shines at just the wrong angle anyway. ;)
I'll definitely be quick to whip out the sandpaper in the future. If in
doubt, sand it out.
Michael McIntyre ---- Silvan < firstname.lastname@example.org>
Linux fanatic, and certified Geek; registered Linux user #243621
We had the pleasure of having Jim Kull, from Wood Magazine, present a
seminar last evening for our customers on Shellac and its many uses in
woodworking. It was a great seminar with over 40 people in attendance.
Jim showed us that the use of a utility knife blade, held almost
perpendicular to the surface(more like a scraping angle), with no more
pressure than you would scrape your face, was all that is typically
required to remove high spots in the shellac surface. His opinion was
that you should never sand, just lightly scrape the high spots, until
smooth. The results were difficult to argue with! Incredibly easy and
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