Yep, and some sellers seem unreasonable with their asking prices, also, lik e these folks:
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At that price, it better not have (which looks, to me, like) replacement sh elves and they better have and state a known/accomplished maker's name, as provenance. It was originally posted about a week or so ago and the descri ption and other wording has been changed..... one aspect being that they cl aim to have paid more, than the asking price. Altered posting, as that, I MO, are red flags.
I assume ".... 19" in debth" is a misspelling/misnomer, but maybe not....
More red flags.... Same people have another very similar armoire.
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I believe these cabinets were recently made. Back in the 1800s, a home's t ax was based on the number of rooms in the house, so homes didn't have clos ets. A closet was considered a room. They had armoires for clothes stor age. There are no accommodations for hanging clothes in these cabinets, h ence, I don't think they date back to the 1800s.
Growing up in our family grocery store we used a triple stone setup with a mineral oil basin below. My dad taught me how to hold and sweep a knife to get a nice straight 20 degree edge. It took a lot of practice, but even now when I sharpen a knife on a stone the edge taper is nice and flat. Some may argue that it should be 17, and others may argue that some should be 25, but I found the 20 degree edge (or the edge I felt was 20 degrees) held up very well with only boning knives needing to be resharpened very often. We had a steel, but it was never used or needed. We simply did not get rolled edges. All the knives in our meat department were modestly inexpensive Forschner knives except for one elcheapo fillet knife I had a shallower angle on and used for showing off to cut tomatoes paper thin with a single swipe. Again, except for the boning knives I almost never had to do more than dress the edges of the blades with the finest of the three stones. Even the boning knives rarely needed more than that. Usually only after training a new meat cutter, or if I had been on vacation for a few weeks. These were knives that got used for work every single day. They were not my private set. These were communally used by every single person who worked in the meat department.
If I saw somebody using a steel on a knife I knew I would have a little more work to do on that knife. It was a sure sign they had taken the knife to the stones and changed my edge geometry.
The key in my opinion to most knives is to figure out the best edge geometry for your use and maintain the blade. It may vary depending on how you use it. Remember a thin edge does cut easier and faster, but it also rolls and wears easier and faster. I keep most of my knives at 20 degrees, but I do have about a 25 degree edge on my parang as it mostly gets used for chopping brush and wood. Yes, my fish fillet knives are shallower, but I also have to touch up the tip where it bumps along the ribs more often.
For stuff I do not want touching up my oil stones I rough them on a bench sander, and finish with some cheap crap Diamond hones I got from Harbor Freight. The diamond hones also work nicely for finishing hand ground cobalt HSS lathe bits.
"Bob La Londe" wrote in news:olag09$vtk$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
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I had some trouble with that the other day. I was thinking about building a jig, but what makes things hard is my pocket knife has a gentle curve at the end (like many do). Do you have any suggestions, or could you go into detail about the technique you use?
I was just looking for knife sharpening information last night. Good timing. :-)
"Bob La Londe" wrote in news:olag09$vtk$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
*snip*
I had some trouble with that the other day. I was thinking about building a jig, but what makes things hard is my pocket knife has a gentle curve at the end (like many do). Do you have any suggestions, or could you go into detail about the technique you use?
I was just looking for knife sharpening information last night. Good timing. :-)
Puckdropper
*********************** I visualize the blade sitting on a wedge. As you sweep around the curve the back of the blade picks up and sweeps back slightly, but the angle from the contact point to the back of the blade in a line along the stone remains the same. Most people have a problem with that part and they get a shallower angle on the curve of the blade. Its sharper, but it folds over easier.
The line that you use to determine your angle should be perpendicular to the tangent of the curve at the contact point with the stone. LOL.
Is proper sharpening achieved by rotating the blade as you draw it across the stone--so that you maintain this angle?
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I don't know if its "proper" but it?s the way I have done it for over 40 years. Actually rotate the knife and lift the handle slightly. If you don't then you may wind up dragging the blade along the edge of the stone and destroying the edge you just worked so hard on. Yeah, I've done that too. LOL.
I learned to sharpen free hand when I was a very young kid, as my Dad got m e a knife early on and checked it often to make sure I kept it sharp. He s ubscribed to the "sharp knives don't cut people, but dull knives do". I ha d a knack for it, and always had a knife in my pocket, even in elementary s chool, and it was always sharp.
My affair with my cutlery goes on today. Learning to sharpen free hand has made me able to sharpen, hone or touch up just about any knife to shaving sharp after I set the bevel I want.
I have really enjoyed the newer steels that are out now and have all kinds of them. Some are beyond hard and require diamond hones to sharpen. My hun ting and kitchen knives are all stainless, but not that hard as I sharpen t hem frequently on my 1200gr diamond rod to keep them as sharp as possible.
I agree with your comment to sharpen to the use for the knife, as I put dif ferent angles on many of my knives based on their use. Hard use knives (my daily work knives that get all the crap work on the job) have fairly blunt angles on them. My kitchen cutters have pretty low angles to slice meats and veggies and the steel is soft enough (probably around 56 on the Rockwel l) that they are easy to resharpen. Like you, due to the way I sharpen I d on't have edge roll.
Not too many folks can sharpen a knife well these days, and even fewer can do it free hand. I sharpen knives for some of my friends, and when they br ing me their knives we are both embarrassed by how dull they are. Try as I might, I can't get them to sharpen properly. A great deal of the problem is that they won't practice to build the muscle memory needed to cut the ed ge bevels the same on both sides. It works out, though. I sharpen their kn ives, and they keep me in some really nice cigars!
" snipped-for-privacy@aol.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
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I made a simple jig that helped quite a bit. All it is is simply a block of wood cut to the desired angle. Placed at one end of the stone, the knife is placed against the stone and jig and that angle is held through the stroke.
There's a commercial version out there, but it only takes two cuts on the saw to make.
Yes, here's a picture similar to the one I keep in the kitchen. You only have to keep the blade straight up and down to get the right angle. I attach water stones to mine with a rubber band.
On 7/29/2017 2:09 AM, snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote: Snip
So uh, I was in the back yard surveying the new sprinkler system that we had installed on Monday. Along the back fence and near one of the pop-up misters I saw a wire sticking out of the ground about 10". I walked over and pulled on it thinking that it was a piece that did not get picked up during the install. It did not give at all.
Humm, did they cut through one of the many cables that are in that section of easement? Looking closer I thought I saw a center wire. Well, it was obviously cut and me cutting the exposed section was not going to do any more harm.
So in a fashion similar to rolling a wire along the edge of your knife to cut through and strip the insulation, I proceeded. OUCH!
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