Shapton Stones, Yep, they work

[Steve knight]

I like the extra course for all of the stones.

[Steve knight]

stropping tends to dub the edge a bit it is fast but usualy does not not give as sharp of a edge. the shine is only visual.

[Steve knight]

because it was fast and you don't need a razor as sharp as most woodworking tools.

[Steve knight]

recommends for woodworking tools (1000, 5000, and 8000 grits). I've been

diamond stones wear fast cutting steel. the tips wear off then they are as slow as dirt.

only with cheap stones. I have not worn out any of my shaptons in 1500 or so blades. I used to wear out a norton in a month or so.

[Steve knight]

they tend not to be very flat and they cut pretty slowly. I dumped mine once I got good water stones.

[Enoch Root]

[mentally]:

Marks "genuine horse butt" off his wishlist.

Darn.

er

[Enoch Root]

Those are just the ones I'm thinking of. And experiencing. Maybe I'll take a look at the coarse Shapton, soon. Thanks. :)

er

[CW]

Then you don't know how.

[Enoch Root]

Some electromicrographs in Leonard Lee's book indicate the stropped edge has a smoother character (than 8k waterstone alone). And I can imagine a periodic brush across the leather will straighten any tendency to hook. But the angle is funny on those pics (coming at the edge from down the bevel instead of the side or on top... no gold plating for the pic either, because they're sequential shots, so lots of glare) and it's hard to say whether it's sharper, or just nicely buffed.

er

[Sailaway]

Tom wrote: >Take a long look at >

>

Thanks Tom, bookmarked it.

[CW]

Are you looking for a laugh?

[Mark & Juanita]

Idea here would be if one were using a sharpening jig; move from the stones to the flat glass, or charged flat glass.

Probably a silly idea, but it would be a flat surface

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

[RicodJour]

Let me guess - you have a beard. ;)

I'd love to have the talented apprentice sharpening my tools constantly. Preferably a Norwegian coed, but that's me. In reality I find the hair-popping sharpening to last a short time. The tools are still plenty sharp, but the hairs they ain't a popping.

Most of my work isn't bench work and I don't always have sharpening plates/stones and jigs at hand. I always do have a leather strop and/or leather gloves - both impregnated with some jeweler's rouge. Every so often a swipe on the strop or glove keeps the edge sharp longer.

Not having studied the history of sharpening, I'm curious to what degree the old masters took their sharpening. I know they didn't have Shapton stones, probably would think Scary Sharp was a look that their wives gave them and didn't have anywhere near the quality of metals we enjoy. Still did nice work.

Just call me a sharpening heretic.

R

[Enoch Root]

It would work, but only if you give the abrasive something to bite into so it can scrape the blade. I believe fixing a mylar sheet to the glass would do it, and strewing the grit over that. Can't remember where I heard that one, though.

I thought you meant a hard rub of the edge against the glass to get a burnishing effect.

er

[Enoch Root]

[snips everywhere]

Well that's not like for like. You've already given the blade its edge, now is the strop "sharpening" it, or straightening out any hook on the edge put there by use?

er

[RicodJour]

Both. I use the strop as the final touch while sharpening, and also use it during use to "buff it up".

R

[RicodJour]

I have a water stone pond that I bought used. Has the glass cover with the mylar, came with the grit - haven't tried it out yet. The grit seems pretty coarse to be meant for the final honing. I thought it was for lapping.

R

[Mark & Juanita]

... snip

Actually, I was asking whether either method would have any benefit. Probably little burnishing impact from the flat glass itself, a grit of some sort would be required. I think some of those honing crayons might have enough stick to adhere to the glass. I might give that a try just for grins.

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

[Jeff Gorman]

"Mark & Juanita" wrote

F or many years, my standard practice has been to use a honing jig (eg the 'General' pattern whose roller runs on the bench top.

I hone on a fine diamond plate and move onto a strip of glass set 3mm lower than the plate and charged with Autosol chrome cleaner cream.

This forms a narrow polished micro-bevel at a very slightly increased sharpening angle.

For a shop-made honing jig for plane irons, maybe a look at my web site - Sharpening Notes - A Honing Jig for Plane irons would be worth while.

Jeff G

[Mark & Juanita]

Thanks for the link reminder Jeff. Seeing the jig, I now understand the "3 mm lower than the plate" comment. Do you have any issues with wearing out the glass?

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+