I'm being pedantic, I know, ..... however,
Casting resin (white polymer) is even cheaper - $79 for 2 gal - which
equates to $39.50/gal
From their site:
AeroMarine Casting Resin is a thin, fast setting polymer used for casting
parts for many applications. It features a simple one to one mix ratio. It
contains no fillers, has no odor, and cures to an off-white color. Colorants
are available, and this product is easily painted.
RED SYSTEM: AeroMarine 300/11 epoxy is a simple, non-critical 1:1 by volume
mix. It has a 45 minute work life, 24 hour cure, and is a medium syrup
viscosity. Used for bonding, great for concrete repair, and general
woodworking applications. It is widely used by people building boats,
airplanes, r/c models, etc. ($46/gal)
Good advice from Steve.
There are two essential rules to consider when applying epoxy; -
Rule 1/. Surface Preparation is Critical
Rule 2/. See Rule 1
The following links appear to provide a good starting point on the process.
I learned I can rent a Edco concrete floor grinder for $95 for the day +
grinding materials (and a hand grinder for $45 more, for the corners). The
"diamond" (Dyma-Sert) cutters are $150 to rent and the stone ones ("coarse"
is appropriate for epoxy preparation according to what I have read about the
stones online) are about $50 to buy. The person doing the renting could
only tell me that most people don't get the diamond ones. My 2 car garage
is exactly 500 sqare feet.
Can I go right at my 40 year old badly stained floor (which has 2 long
narrow cracks, with shifting about them) without power washing first?
Nothing is wet, it's just aged grime (and I want to smooth the cracks). An
Edco video I saw mentioned that the stones can get plugged with glue, but
that doesn't seem too likely to me from a lot of very old grime and a bit of
paint. However, I would hate to see "smearing" occur because that most
likely wouldn't provide good preparation for the epoxy... Feedback
invited, of course.
Wood being unstable, I'm thinking that that these pieces may not lie
together as nicely as one would like. I was thinking of using 6 pipe clamps
for this (and all) of the glueing. It seems like one could take advantage
of the "factory edge down" guidance to assist here. Especially since, by
the time everything is glued together, the errors could be added together 8
times. Is the plan to just sand away all uneven-ness with the commercial
drum sander later? I've got a 9" and 14" planes now and a 12.5" bench
planer. I could put the glued 8" wide by 73" pieces through my bench planer
and glue them after that--maybe there is no significant advantage though,
huh, since the 8" wide by 73" pieces probably each have their own character
(deviations from true-ness). I'd like to think I might finish the jobs
with the hand planes, but I'll see what you folks think first. I hope to
complete 2 benches along with a shelf or two for them.
By the way, I saw that Lowes has 3/4" pipe clamps for just over $15--best
price I've seen.
One of the reasons you only glue one joint at a time.
You are goinjg to want to alternate clamps (One up, one down) to keep
things in line.
Plan on a dozen clamps.
Not if you follow my glue-up schedule I gave you.
Don't send a boy to do a man's job.
You will end up fiddle f**king with those hand tools forever and
probably still won't be happy.
$30 spent for drum sander time is the best $30 you will spend on this
Lew, Thank you for answering my questions!
Anyone, Please let me know if you would suggest a book or two that I might
find useful. I've begun reading Scott Landis', "The Workbench Book", but I
would also be interested in a good one that describes fundamental techniques
(such as clamping). It's easy to see, in retrospect, why alternating clamps
may be helpful here, but I don't think I would have considered alternating
them unless my dry glue-up failed. I've read some, but I realize I have a
great deal to learn... I think the fun is in the journey.
I just requested it from my library. Part of my intent was to not have to
ask so many questions to the group. I expect that after I look at the book,
any questions that I have will be better ones.
I hope for an early 2010 assembly. I've got a co-project of patching,
painting and cleaning my garage/"workshop to be" with a concrete
grinder--never used one of those before, but they evidently rent them in
town at $95/day! :) Based on your last message, I need to plan on buying
a few more pipe clamps too (12)...
It's a great book and very informative in a down to earth way.
Better than what?
You have had some very good questions.
Sounds like a total PITA project.
A suggested new project, a 4x8 general purpose table which I found to
be absolutely indispensable,
Start by building a 4x8 frame with doubled (sistered) 2x6 and 2x6
interior studs on 24" centers.
(Basically looks like stud wall when complete)
Cut 4, 2x6x32" pieces for legs.
Cut gusset plates about 18"x24" from 1/2 CDX ply.
You want these to be triangular in shape along one edge so if you are
careful with your layout, you will save a little ply.
These ply gussets get sandwiched between the 2x6 legs and 2x6 table
As Norm would say, "Time for a little assembly".
Attach gusset plates to stud wall with glue and deck screws, then
attach legs to gusset plates with more glue and deck screws.
Use some 1x4 for diagonal braces to keep legs in place.
Next cover table top with doubled 4x8x1/2 ply.
(I used 1/2" CDX.)
Plug any voids in surface ply with filler, sand smooth, then paint.
I used one of these for 10 years. Kept it outside and covered with a
Wouldn't have been able to work without it.
(Your Planer fits very well when you want to use it, at least mine
Well, being in the same room where the untreated material has been sitting
is a problem.
I had to give away a Sauder bookcase I bought because I couldn't stand to be
same room with it (a lot of sweating--my whole body, especially my chest,
That was a stronger reaction than my usual shortness of breath reaction from
When I actually sanded some plywood and laminate (on different days) the
ones I had to face in bed. I've been to the emergency room for similar
reactions twice (from
other allergens), and knowing there is not much they do, except tell me that
the first number
of my blood pressure is about 165, I just "road it out". I was worried
It's sort of become personal. I don't want to have plywood, MDF or particle
board in my life
anymore than I have to. I will be very pleased to build and use a
With regard to your question, I wish there were no plywood, MDF or particle
board, as we
presently know them, on this planet! :) For similiar reasons, I also
wish there were no chickens
in my grocier's freezer with "broth added", or products with artificial
but I won't hold my breath waiting for any of these things to disappear.
Amusingly, if I had
been born 50 years earlier I would not have encountered any of these
unnatural allergens. ;)
By the way, ICYAI, in the food industry, the advertising word "natural" has
absolutely no meaning.
<snip allergry woes>
Can certainly appreciate your problem as I developed contact
dermatitis from exposure to epoxy a few years ago.
It was a bear for awhile.
I understand you can't machine ply, cdx, etc, but what about painted
That table I described was built outside, lived it's entire life
outside with only a couple of coats of paint to protect it.
It could be built without ply gussets but you're stuck with a ply
From what I have read, paint does not prevent outgassing of
are sealants that do. I am currently sitting at a Sauder computer desk I
assembled in 1997
which gives me no problems now. It did in 1997, but I was less sensitive at
I remember looking at some of my furniture then questioning, "How can a
piece of furniture
seem to make me sweat?".
To me, "time" seems like a better healer of the material than a covering for
it is. Personally,
I'd like to avoid it altogether. I would like to avoid bringing any new
materials into my home that place
my sense of well-being at risk. My sense of well-being was bombarded while
I was figuring
out what my issues were. By the way, I don't think these aren't just my
issues--I think I'm just a little
more sensitive than most people to the chemicals that are showing up in
and food. I don't think the chemicials under question are good for any
people. Sadly, I think
that he big picture here is remnicient of the way that tobacco companies
defended the safety
of smoking cigarettes (until not very long ago). I don't find this
encouraging--and it bothers me
that the USA allows the import of building materials that no other country
I've been thinking about the pipe for the pipe clamps.
I assume that "black steel 3/4, schedule 40" is the right type.
I was thinking 24 to 28 two foot pieces would be about right, so that
using couplets, that would allow me to have 12 to 14 four-foot clamps
(of course, I've never done this before).
I know someone who can thread the pipe for me if I buy unthreaded
pipe--but where? What is a good source for this pipe?
I've been scrounging around the Internet, so I'm not idealess, but I
still would like to hear your ideas.
Maybe I should give up all this "nonsense" and try to get the bar clamps on
at HF for $5 each...
48" pipe is a good length.
These days there are speciality firms that make pipe nipples all day
Find a plumbing supply house and get a quote on 3/4" Sch 40, black,
48" Lg, threaded nipples.
Throw in a 3/4" coupling for each nipple and you are good to go.
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