sealing end grains on gate / compressor bleed out

a) I know you can use glue sizing (1 part glue, 10 parts water) as a pre-finish seal on end grain. Can this be done on outside as well, specifically cedar end grain?

b) any suggestions on how to bleed out a 27 gallon compressor easily when not using? I jsut leave it pressurized all the time, which I know is not good for the tank or fittings? Valve is on the bottom, of course.

Chris

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a) Yes but it will not be waterproof. You be better off using epoxy.

b) Why is leaving it pressurized not good for the tank or fittings? I've always left mine pressurized and still have no problems after 25+ years. The rubber hoses are no worse for the constant pressure either. Art

Reply to
Artemus

How do you "know" this? I have a 60 gallon Sanborn that's 20 years old and it NEVER gets depressurized, and it's never caused me a single problem.

Reply to
Steve Turner

Make sure it's a waterproof glue.

If you're concerned about condensation buildup rusing out the tank, take a look at

Reply to
J. Clarke

b. Leaving pressure on the tank is OK, leaving condensation in the tank is not. I mounted a galvanized pipe and elboe and ball valve on mine and I keep the ball valve cracked open just enough to keep the water out. The compressor runs 1~2 times a day when not in use.

Reply to
Leon

Yeah, I installed this on my 25 gallon cheapie compressor. It worked for about a week, then one day the outlet got stuck, maybe something stuck in it. I was futzing with it when it just crumbled. You get what you pay for at HF.

I just wired up the tank with a 4' hose coming from the bottom with a standard air gun on the end and I just air it it out whenever I am over on that area of the shop. In the summer here in california I never see any mist but get a good spray during cold weather.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

You should put your review of their turd on their site.

That's a good idea. Do you get any air leakage with this rig that causes the compressor to cycle periodically? If so, how often?

Reply to
Steve Turner

This is a cool idea but remember that the pressure if "FULL", keep some kind of valve on it if you don't want a lot of air and water to come out at one time.

Reply to
Leon

Year ago I moved the bottom drain plug to the end of a 3' length of air hose on my small vertical, where it is much more accessible.

The air hose holds quite a bit of water that would otherwise be in the tank, and, unlike the tank, is rustproof ... and gravity does the work.

It is a simple matter to open the c*ck slightly every other day or so and let the water in the hose squirt out, and draining the tank this way doesn't even cause the compressor to cycle on.

Reply to
Swingman

Swingman wrote: ...

That's actually kinda' kewt... :)

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Reply to
dpb

I keep my tank pressurized all the time, also. I use it for the woodshop and upholstery shop and drain the tank at at least twice a week.

That 3' hose, off the drain c*ck, sounds like a great idea!!!

Addendum: Don't forget to oil your air tools often. This is what I fail to do often enough... I just don't think to do it, until a tool starts jamming.

Sonny

Reply to
Sonny

I've been doing it for "years" (the "year", singular, was a typo) and its always worked like a charm, besides making a good deal of sense.

I've got some nailers that need oil, and some that don't ... it's why I keep the factory stickers on all of 'em. Hell if you don't remember that you bought a Festool tool, no telling what else you don't remember. ;)

Reply to
Swingman

es the compressor to

I have no leakage as long as I don't leave tools on the lines.

I have the short line from the bottom and also a tee at the regular outlet. I run one hose up through the rafters to the fron of my garage shop to use on my pocket holer, filling tires and working up front. The other line runs overhead and drops between my cutoff and work table. If I leave a nail gun on the line it will bleed but if I drop it of, the system stays tight forever.

I do turn it off however. I had a blow out once with a bad attach to a hose and found the compressor running when I cam home, so just a habit but it is always full tanked when I flip her on.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

I don't have an oiler so I do oil manually whenever I pickup the tool. My one Bostitch brad nail that dosen't want oil has NO OIL written on it with a felt pin.

Reply to
SonomaProducts.com

Now there is an idea waiting to happen... I almost never drain my compressor, and have had it for around 30 years. If I'd have thought of this idea, I may have hooked up an air gun to the thing... Every time this subject comes up, I eagerly wait for my tank to explode in a pile of rust... then I forget about it for another year or 5:-)

You should send this one in for a tip of the day magazine thing-ee, and maybe get a free tool of some sort. This is one of those smack your head ideas...

I have several air guns I never use for anything, one has just a button you press... I could hook that directly with no hose and just tap the button with my foot... hmmmm...

Reply to
Jack Stein

I like the idea of having an air gun on the hose so you just squeeze for a sec as you walk by.

I know I've discussed this here before, but, getting old, I don't remember how it ended up. Your point on draining the water out of the tank, into a rustproof hose reminded me of something I've thought of, considering I never, or almost never bother to drain my tank.

I wonder if having the bottom of a metal tank void of water at any depth, just being damp, or just wet all the time is all that good? My thought is metal rusts faster being wet with lots of oxygen getting to it vs being submerged, underwater with little oxygen getting at it. I know everyone everywhere says drain your tank routinely, but after 30 years of mostly ignoring this advice, I wonder why it's made no discernible difference to my tank?

Reply to
Jack Stein

Personally, I'm less concerned with standing water rusting out the bottom of my tank than I am with it accumulating to the point where it makes it past my water filter and into the main lines, possibly ruining the spray job I'm right in the middle of. This *rarely* (if ever) happens to me here in Austin (where the humidity isn't usually very high), and I have a very good filter (an old Motor Guard M-30, like this one:

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but I think Sonoma's idea is a good one nonetheless, and I would be *much* more inclined to keep the tank drained if I didn't have to climb underneath it with a little bucket to catch the water, tearing up my fingers on that stubborn cutoff valve in the process...

Reply to
Steve Turner

but I think Sonoma's

Yeah, a great idea. I long ago put a copper extension on the drain, with a petcock that is used so infrequently I need pliers to get it to turn. Worse, I have to move a ton of junk piled in front of it to even see it.

I'm still wondering if a damp tank rusts faster than one submerged in water.

Reply to
Jack Stein

Yep, It takes oxygen to make rust. Good dry water doesn't rust anything.

Like the old Coke with anail init. The nail always rusted off above the liquid and was siney clean below the Coke.

Bottom's up!

I'm still wondering if a damp tank rusts faster than one submerged in water.

Reply to
Josepi

...and water is Hydrogen and...?

You must drink that crappy "instant water" stuff.

^^^^^ You misspelled "anal".

Yep, misspelled.

Reply to
krw

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