Air compressor fittings and hose

[MiamiCuse]

In anticipation that I would need to be doing some nailing and stapling I got a used air compressor.

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to figure out about the fittings I need.

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it seems may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that has a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just connect to the tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then it will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable or is there a better way to go?

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this basically the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have those but not sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe dope?

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I assume I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow guns or tire inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I read the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the compressor. A lot of brown fluid came out. Does it mean the compressor is badly corroded? I don't know how old the unit is. The model is wl604004aj. It seems the drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

Thanks,

MC

[MiamiCuse]

One more question. I noticed some compressor has a shut off ball valve on the outlet. Is this a good idea? I can control the flow via the regulator what is the purpose of an additional shut off? Just insurance?

MC

[SteveB]

You asked several questions, soooo.......

On mine, I put a female quick connect coming out of the compressor. Then quick connects on all the hoses and tools.

The corroded drain is not a good thing.

Use plain Teflon tape.

The coily things are handy, but age quickly, crack easily if cold, and fail catastrophically, sending flying shards.

A ball ninety will let you turn off the air quickly in case you cut a hose or cut a hose AND the regulator fails.

Steve

[fftt]

Wow...lots of questions

first of all.....forget the horsepower rating.

All the oyu can bank on is the cfm number at some psi

or the amps & the volts....is this a 220v unit? becuase the very most oyu can get out of a 110v / 20 amp circuit is just a taste over 2 hp

the standard configuration is a male q/d on one end of the hose & a female q/d on the other.....otherwise, how would connect hose to additional hose.

A male "output" fitting would not be a good idea...you need a female output q/d...they're self-sealing

I have some 1/4" hose (kinda wimpy for big air consuming tools) & some 3/8" hose (kinda heavy & cumbersome)

The coiled hose, is just hose, coiled.....great for a blow gun at a machine tool but I'd never use it for construction air tools. The coil hose will drive a nail gun but it will proably drive you crazy, getting in the way & fighting you.

Air hose is jsut like natural gas, water piping or electicity ......longer runs need bigger hose (wre) to prevent pressure (voltage) drop. Short runs can do fine with smaller hose, it all depends on the tool cfm consumption

that brown liquid is rusty water...it the tank is thin, you might be in trouble...if its a decent thickness, maybe not.

cheers Bob

[Stormin Mormon]

It is a CAMPBELL HAUSFIELD 13 gallons 4 HP. Now I am trying to figure out about the fittings I need.

CY: That's a fairly large one. A HP is typically 748 watts, so 4 HP is about 3000 watts. That's about 28 amps at 110 VAC or 14 amps, at 220 VAC. You will likely need a 220 volt power line?

It seems most air tool comes in a male 1/4" push in fitting. So it seems may be the most versatile way to configure a hose is to have a hose that has a female push in fittings on both ends. One end will just connect to the tool, the other end connects to the compressor.

On the compressor I think I will thread in a male push in fittings, then it will always connect with my hose. Does that sound reasonable or is there a better way to go?

CY: Nope. The female end has the built in air valve, so the female end is always on the pressurized side.

Now on to a few questions.

The threaded fittings I noticed thread seals are used. Is this basically the same thing as the teflon tape used by plumbers? I have those but not sure if they are identical. Or is it better to use pipe dope?

CY: Good to use both. Teflon tape on the male threads, and then some rectorseal.

What size hose is best? 1/4"? 3/8"? I will have 1/4" fittings. I assume I cannot use those coiled up thin hoses? Those are for blow guns or tire inflators? I don't think those can drive a nail gun, or can they?

CY: The larger hose will carry more air, wtih less "line loss". I'd suggest to get the 3/8 hose if at all possible.

The guy I bought the compressor from, never drained the compressor. I read the users guide and the first thing I did was to drain the compressor. A lot of brown fluid came out.

CY: That's rusty water.

Does it mean the compressor is badly corroded?

CY: Maybe, who can tell.

I don't know how old the unit is. The model is wl604004aj. It seems the drain screw is also partly corroded, very hard to turn.

CY: I'd have to guess so! Some oil or WD-40 might help. Since the comressor is 4 HP, it is probably splash lubricated. Look for the oil drain plug, and drain out the old oil. Replace it with the necessary new oil. Probably ND-30 motor oil. ND stands for Non-Detergent. Will attract less water from the humidity in the air. Napa and other auto parts stores have ND-30, about the same price as the usual car type motor oil.

Thanks,

MC

CY: You're welcome.

[Stormin Mormon]

Yes, the ball valve is a good idea. Cheap insurance.

[Bob F]

Teflon tape is fine. Be sure when you buy fittings that you get the right type. There are more than one type in the stores, and they don't intermingle.

Bigger hose for bigger runs or higher volume uses. Mine is all 3/8". Better to use a larger long hose than an extension cord to reach distances.

How do you know it was never drained? How much water came out?

FWIW, I acquired an old compressor tank. I talked to the county "tank and boiler" inspector about getting it tested, and he volunteered to come by, and tested several spots on the tank with an untrasound thickness guage, and assured me the tank was fine.

Unless you know it was done recently, replace the compressor oil soon with oil specified in the manual.

[MiamiCuse]

Wow...lots of questions

first of all.....forget the horsepower rating.

All the oyu can bank on is the cfm number at some psi

or the amps & the volts....is this a 220v unit? becuase the very most oyu can get out of a 110v / 20 amp circuit is just a taste over 2 hp

the standard configuration is a male q/d on one end of the hose & a female q/d on the other.....otherwise, how would connect hose to additional hose.

A male "output" fitting would not be a good idea...you need a female output q/d...they're self-sealing

I have some 1/4" hose (kinda wimpy for big air consuming tools) & some 3/8" hose (kinda heavy & cumbersome)

The coiled hose, is just hose, coiled.....great for a blow gun at a machine tool but I'd never use it for construction air tools. The coil hose will drive a nail gun but it will proably drive you crazy, getting in the way & fighting you.

Air hose is jsut like natural gas, water piping or electicity ......longer runs need bigger hose (wre) to prevent pressure (voltage) drop. Short runs can do fine with smaller hose, it all depends on the tool cfm consumption

that brown liquid is rusty water...it the tank is thin, you might be in trouble...if its a decent thickness, maybe not.

cheers Bob

===================================================================

Thanks Bob...how do I know if the tank is thin?

I should have drained the tank to inspect. But I didn't. Oh well...

I understand the hose being male/female point, it makes sense. So I will keep the compressor outlet female push-in 1/4". Then make a hose one end male (to go with the compressor end) and the other end female, to be ready for male ended tools, then make another double ended male/male push fitting in case a female push in tool.

[SteveBell]

There are two types of female fittings. The one I've seen permanently attached to tanks is spring loaded in the open position. You can connect the hose with one hand just by pushing. The one usually found on the end of a hose is spring-loaded in the closed position. You have to pull back with one hand while attaching the fitting with the other.

I've never seen a female connector on a tool. Besides, you can change them yourself. Skip the male/male unless you need it.

[1D1OT]

In addition to the other replies, I think the only good use for the coiled hoses is over a workbench in an air-plumbed shop and over a tire changer in a garage. It'll hang retracted and out of the way overhead until needed.

[MiamiCuse]

I understand. However, when I go to the store to buy fittings, they don't label them differently - spring loaded in the closed position vs spring loaded in the open position. Or is there a way to tell them apart?

Thanks,

MC

[MiamiCuse]

Thanks for the detailed reply. It helps me understand a great deal. Now to your question, it is oiless and it operates on a 15A 120V circuit, not 220V, but it's heavy!

[MiamiCuse]

I know it was never drained as I asked the previous owner, when he last drained the tank, and he looked at me and said he never did.

The compressor is oiless so there is no need to replace oil?

Here is the online reference for the unit.

Thanks,

MC

[Bob F]

I've been using Marvel Mystery oil. How would you compare that to the above?

Make sure you use a heavy duty cord if you do that. Too small of a cord can fry the motor. I do fine with a large home-built powered reel with 150 feet of hose, and an occasional additional 50 feet (all 3/8"). But my compressor is a heavy 2 stage, and not movable and probably supplies significantly more pressure than the OP's.

[gregforester]

I agree. If a hose blows in a well insulated and weatherstripped garage, the internal pressure will blow the garage right off the foundation if you dont shut off that ball valve quickly. You dont want to be messing around with a slow regulator valve when the walls and roof of your garage are bowing outward with as much as 3 feet of flex. If the walls are tightly bolted to the concrete floor, the roof might blow right off the garage instead, and collapse the walls on you or others inside the garage.

Air compressors are dangerous, particularly when used indoors in newer buildings that are well sealed. It's far better to use them outdoors or in well ventilated buildings. Even then, beware. If a hose breaks suddenly, it can whip around and decapitate both humans and animals in a fraction of a second. Tens of thousands of men die every year from air compressor accidents.

Contact OSHA before ever using an air compressor for the first time. Before using any air powered device, always get proper training and certification. Always wear safety glasses, ear protection, and full body armour. Always keep children and pets away from air compressors when they are in use. Never plug in an air compressor until it has been inspected by a certified licensed inspector.

For further information, go to:

Safety First !!!!

Greg F.

[salty]

Marvel Mystery OIl "is" ATF.

[Jim Elbrecht]

-snip-

or have a leaky quick-connect downstream. Close the ball valve and you can leave everything ready to go in the AM without listening to the compressor kick on all night.

Jim

[HeyBub]

It's worse than you imagine! Actually USING a compressor in a confined space will suck all the air out of the room causing an implosion! Before that happens, however, paint can lids will pop open, jars will shatter, and the cat will have a nosebleed.

Best to open a window slightly, on the opposite side of the room from the compressor.

[Stormin Mormon]

As the other poster said, you can get a little over two HP out of a 15/110 circuit. I ran it on a calculator, and got

2.5 HP.

My experience with a tiny oilless compressor, it runs a lot better if I put a drop or two of oil in the air intake, every year or so. I don't use mine very often.

The other writer's point is very good, teflon tape sometimes breaks off, and clogs equipment. Rectorseal #5 is great for thread sealing. Permatex #2 non hardening should also be good.

[salty]

Why would you plug your compressor into a lighting circuit?